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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody completely removed it? I've had the car for two years now and it hasn't worked the whole time. So instead of fixing it, why not drop weight and delete it? I've ordered the ford racing delete pulley, but plan on removing all lines etc. What about the electrical connections?

And yes, I live in Texas, some of you might think this is unthinkable, but like I've said, I'm used to not having it.
 

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Has anybody completely removed it? I've had the car for two years now and it hasn't worked the whole time. So instead of fixing it, why not drop weight and delete it? I've ordered the ford racing delete pulley, but plan on removing all lines etc. What about the electrical connections?

And yes, I live in Texas, some of you might think this is unthinkable, but like I've said, I'm used to not having it.
It'll kill your resale, if it's competely removed and not easily replaced. I can't imagine the weight helping that much.
 

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I'm with the other guy just fix it or let it be. It's not like you're driving a beat up 86. Just my two cents ya ______. <--- fill that in yourself lol
 

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I doubt it was be easy to get the wiring out. But the rest could go. You should do the rear seat delete also and save some poundage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
muscledom said:
I'm with the other guy just fix it or let it be. It's not like you're driving a beat up 86. Just my two cents ya ______. <--- fill that in yourself lol
So, we meet again...

No lol, anyways your both missing the point. It's going, along with lots of other parts. I'd like to be around 3250lbs with me in it. My goal is 11s with a non fi motor.


---------- Post added at 06:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------

Aggiesrok said:
I doubt it was be easy to get the wiring out. But the rest could go. You should do the rear seat delete also and save some poundage.
Does the wiring even have to go? Why couldn't I just tape it off and zip tie it out of the way. And I have the rear seat delete. It's far from stock
 

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That's different!

Aluminum drive shaft?
What's your weight now (car, not you)?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Aggiesrok said:
That's different!

Aluminum drive shaft?
What's your weight now (car, not you)?
To be honest, I've never weighed it. Driveshaft, not yet. It's on the list along with a k member and sway bar delete. Like I said lol, it's a slow process.
 

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BCS06GT said:
So, we meet again...

No lol, anyways your both missing the point. It's going, along with lots of other parts. I'd like to be around 3250lbs with me in it. My goal is 11s with a non fi motor.

---------- Post added at 06:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------



Does the wiring even have to go? Why couldn't I just tape it off and zip tie it out of the way. And I have the rear seat delete. It's far from stock
Dude I'm pretty confident you can hit 11s with bolt ons, nitrous, and slicks at stock curb weight. No need to do a bunch of weight reduction bs
 

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Discussion Starter #10
muscledom said:
Dude I'm pretty confident you can hit 11s with bolt ons, nitrous, and slicks at stock curb weight. No need to do a bunch of weight reduction bs
Oh yeah I know, but why not hit 11s NA, and then spray? I mean I shouldn't need spray to hit 11s, just a diet and full bolt ons.
 

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BCS06GT said:
Oh yeah I know, but why not hit 11s NA, and then spray? I mean I shouldn't need spray to hit 11s, just a diet and full bolt ons.
Yea no doubt. I'm just a fan of having a full interior DD type car. **** diets haha.
 

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Start with tubular k member, tubular a arms, drag springs, 90/10 shocks up front 50/50 shocks in the back, plus all supporting suspension mods like LCAs, UCA, 15" weld racing rims, and strip the interior till there's just a dash and an aluminum bucket seat
 

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BCS06GT said:
Oh yeah I know, but why not hit 11s NA, and then spray? I mean I shouldn't need spray to hit 11s, just a diet and full bolt ons.
Not gonna happen til you build the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tc x 4 said:
Not gonna happen til you build the motor.
Are you joking? Research it. You can hit 11s NA WITH the stock bottom end. It's all in weight loss/tires/suspension.

---------- Post added at 08:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

BaSohol said:
Start with tubular k member, tubular a arms, drag springs, 90/10 shocks up front 50/50 shocks in the back, plus all supporting suspension mods like LCAs, UCA, 15" weld racing rims, and strip the interior till there's just a dash and an aluminum bucket seat
I've got the upper arm/mount with lowers and relocation brackets. I do plan on the shocks with springs on the rear. K member is coming.
 

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BCS06GT said:
Are you joking? Research it. You can hit 11s NA WITH the stock bottom end. It's all in weight loss/tires/suspension.

---------- Post added at 08:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------



I've got the upper arm/mount with lowers and relocation brackets. I do plan on the shocks with springs on the rear. K member is coming.
The stock heads suck, prove me wrong. Sure, you can basically junk the car and remove enough weight.
 

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You can hit 11's without "junking" the car. Suspension, slicks, bolt on's, cams and some weight reduction will get you there. The stock heads aren't great, but I'm confident it's doable.
 

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The theory in racing is, cut #10 you gain, or free up 1hp. Ppl on here are running high 12s with full bolt ons. A tenth of a second is really hard to get, let a lone a full second. Good luck.

---------- Post added at 10:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:57 PM ----------

BenGT07 said:
You can hit 11's without "junking" the car. Suspension, slicks, bolt on's, cams and some weight reduction will get you there. The stock heads aren't great, but I'm confident it's doable.
Cams= built motor
 

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Discussion Starter #19
tc x 4 said:
The theory in racing is, cut #10 you gain, or free up 1hp. Ppl on here are running high 12s with full bolt ons. A tenth of a second is really hard to get, let a lone a full second. Good luck.
I'm not trying to be a dick, I respect your opinion, I've just seen it done. Obviously it also requires a driver mod too lol

I still can't believe nobody's fully deleted their a/c....
 

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tc x 4 said:
The theory in racing is, cut #10 you gain, or free up 1hp. Ppl on here are running high 12s with full bolt ons. A tenth of a second is really hard to get, let a lone a full second. Good luck.
I've seen high 12's with just bolt ons. No suspension work, street tires and still got the spare in the trunk. I've never seen 11's on a N/A 4.6, but I think it's doable.
 
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