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Discussion Starter #1
As part of this big project I'm undertaking with my 2002 GT, I want to replace my motor & transmission mounts. I'm not necessarily having issues with them; rather, I'm just replacing them due to the age of the car. I'm sure they're not working as well as when they weren't almost 18 years old.

Originally, I planned on paying a shop to replace the motor mounts (the trans mount seems relatively easy to replace). However, since my radiator; radiator hoses; both battery cables, and my oil filter adapter are currently removed from the car, and access to the motor mounts now seems much easier, I've decided to try and tackle the job myself.

I've already got all the bolts removed that attach each motor mount to the block. All that remains is to remove the nut from the stud on each mount that attach it to the car/K-member (the only reason I've not already done that is because I lacked a 21mm deep socket; I ordered a Craftsman one from Amazon yesterday, and I'll have it Monday).

Once I remove those 21mm nuts, how do I get the motor mounts out of there? My plan is, and I need advice/opinions on whether or not this will work, is to remove the bolts that secure the trans to it's mount, then place a floor jack somewhere under the trans, where I can support or even slightly lift the trans. Then, using a 2nd floor jack, I'll use a piece of 2"x4" wood block turned upright or on its side, and place it under the front of the oil pan, where the bolts are, and then lift the motor up far enough to get the clearance to remove the motor mounts. Will that allow me to get them out? I really don't want to have to drop the K-member (the most detailed video I watched on YouTube showed how to drop the K-member, in order to replace the motor mounts, but that was a Mach 1, and the guy stated there wasn't room to Jack the DOHC motor up far enough to get enough clearance).

Anybody think I'll be able to get the mounts out by just trying to Jack the motor up, without dropping the K-member? Thanks.
 

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The left one you can get out without a TON of trouble, the right one is a nightmare. I was able to get the OEM one out in one piece IIRC but putting a new urethane one in was a no go even with the engine jacked up as high as it would go. I had to take it apart and install it in pieces and then managed to get it back together with dogbones and a lot of swearing. I have changed transmissions faster than it took me to do those damn mounts with the stock K in place.

TBTH if your OEM mounts are still ok I'd leave them unless you are just replacing with new OEM mounts which might go in ok.

If that is the case then the procedure is just jack the engine up as high as it'll go, support it with jackstands plus the jack, left one is easy to get out, right one sucks and you need to pull the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Yes; all three mounts I'm using are Ford OEM. I picked them up from my Ford dealer last week.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I'm very pleased to report that I got both motor mounts replaced today, as well as getting the starter removed! I'm QUITE pleased with myself, LOL!

I have the new driver's-side mount all bolted up to the motor, but the passenger-side one is just loosely bolted up. I'm going to buy that new Ford Performance hi-torque mini-starter (M-11000-C50), and after I get it and go to install it, I might find it easier to jack the motor back up, and remove the motor mount again, to better access the starter bolts. That's the only way I got the starter off today; I was able to remove 2 of the 3 bolts before removing the motor mount, but for the life of me, I couldn't locate the 3rd bolt to get the socket onto it. I couldn't do that until I got the motor mount out of the way. The reason the motor mount is loosely installed is because I jacked the motor up with a block of wood under the oil pan, and I didn't want to leave all that weight on the oil pan for another week or two (I'm a tractor-trailer driver who's away from home for a week or so at a time), so I put it in place to lower the engine back down.

Incidentally, that 3rd starter bolt was already loose; once I got the socket/extensions on it, I was able to remove it by hand - no ratchet was needed! I don't know if someone at some point had put a new starter on that car or not, but I highly doubt the factory assembled it that way.

Also, I did remove the A/C compressor completely from the car. I'm not sure if I could've gotten the passenger-side mount out without doing that (my A/C system was already discharged by a shop, as I replaced my A/C condenser as part of this massive restoration project I'm undertaking).

The last two parts I need to get are the aforementioned Ford Performance starter motor, and a new radiator. After that, I can start assembling everything. Once I get everything under the hood put back together, then I'm going to pull the dash, so I can replace the heater core (it's not leaking, but it's nearly 18 years old, and I don't want it leaking on my brand-new NOS OEM Dark Charcoal floor carpeting I just put in, last year)!
 

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Ok Ford OEM mounts probably were easier to get in than the Energy mounts I put in my 98. They're a little fatter and a lot stiffer (giggity!) and were a big problem to get in with the stock K in the way.

As far as the dash, that's actually really easy to do, just time consuming. Disconnect the cluster, all the switches, the radio/hvac, remove the glovebox and disconnect the pass airbag. Drop the steering column and pull the center console/shifter. Then pop the defroster vent out, 3 bolts under it, 4 bolts in the center of the dash and then 3 bolts holding the dash in on each side (I THINK... it might be 3 or 4 on each side...). After that the sucker just lifts right out easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks; yeah, I've already got some step-by-step write up on pulling a '99-'04 Mustang dash I got from some SVT forum, and I already pulled the dash to replace a leaking heater core on a '97 T-Bird I used to own, so I've got some experience doing this, and I'm not anticipating too much trouble.

Honestly, the hardest part of this whole project I'm engaged in was the motor mounts/starter, and now that I'm just about through that, everything else should be a relative "piece of cake"!

As I'm typing that, I remember something I read somewhere once:

"Every 20 minute job is one broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day nightmare", LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So; I got my new Ford Performance high-torque mini-starter on Tuesday, and I was home on Wednesday and had a chance to install it - even got ALL THREE bolts installed (only because I removed the new passenger-side motor mount I'm installing to install the starter)! - but, now I'm having trouble getting that rear-most bolt on the motor mount installed, because of the starter motor partially blocking it. Not sure why I'm having difficulty with it, as I originally removed it with the OEM starter in place (and, this starter is a bit smaller/lighter); I can get it in it's hole with my hand, but I can't really get it started. I'm having difficulty get my 3/8" ratchet/extensions/swivel/socket on the bolt (without it falling out), which is how I originally was able to remove it.

I'm on the road again, but when I get home next (probably towards the of next week), I'll try again. I think I'm going to try jacking the motor back up - that might give me a little more room to get my tools on the bolt, and I think I should loosen slightly the two front bolts on the motor mount. I think that's why the bolt won't start; a combination of the odd angle I'm having to work with, and I think the hole on the motor mount bracket isn't lined up completely square with the bolt hole. Maybe if I can wiggle the motor mount slightly while I'm trying to start the bolt by hand, that might help. I do NOT want to take the starter motor back out, as it was a REAL b*tch to get that first mounting bolt started (after that, it was relatively easy to get the other bolts installed, as I could stick my head up in there and visually see the other two bolt holes without the motor mount in there; with the motor mount installed, it's going to be REAL hard getting all the starter bolts in there!), but I may end up having to remove the starter, again.

I just thought of something, as I'm typing this - maybe I should loosen, but not remove, the starter bolts. Maybe if I can wiggle the starter motor around a bit, that MIGHT just give me the clearance I need to get that rear motor mount bolt in! 😊

Other than that, I'm open to suggestions...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, I got that rear bolt on the passenger-side motor mount tightened, and I was able to do it without removing the starter motor, or even loosening it's mounting bolts. I slightly loosened the two front bolts on the motor mount, then raised the engine back up a bit. Since the two front bolts were slightly loose, I could move the mount slightly, and I was able to hand-tighten the rear bolt almost all the way. I then used three extension on my 3/8" ratchet, along with a universal joint, and I was able to get the 13mm socket on the bolt by removing the passenger-side inner fender splash-shield (I'm replacing the inner fender splash-shield on both sides; already have new ones from Ford), and going in between the car body & the K-member. I tightened the bolt as much as I could using the set-up I was using, and even attempted a second time to tighten it, but that's as tight as I'm going to get it (I'm quite sure it's tight enough).

Now, my next step is to put the battery cables together like the factory ones were (I've got new positive/negative cables), and route them the same way. I would've already done that, but I previously wrapped the positive cable, where it attaches to the starter motor, together with that wire that attaches to the smaller post on the starter, and I didn't leave enough slack to attach them both, without too much strain on the smaller wire. I'm going to take them apart, and use my original starter as sort of a template as to how to best position them together, then wrap them up & place them inside wire loom, just like the OE ones were.
 
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