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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 GT with an aftermarket K-member, tubular a-arms, coilovers and have deleted the front sway bar. I notice at speeds greater than 100 mph the front end shakes excessively. The alignment is dead on and the wheels are balanced correctly. Any ideas?
 

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nitrous2v said:
I have a 2000 GT with an aftermarket K-member, tubular a-arms, coilovers and have deleted the front sway bar. I notice at speeds greater than 100 mph the front end shakes excessively. The alignment is dead on and the wheels are balanced correctly. Any ideas?
Might be a dumb one but fixed my shake, tighten the lug nuts. Haha why would you delete the front sway bar? Jw
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I got the lugs torqued down to specs. Do you think a bump steer kit may help? My A-arms and tie-rods are not even close to being parallel.
 

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nitrous2v said:
Yeah I got the lugs torqued down to specs. Do you think a bump steer kit may help? My A-arms and tie-rods are not even close to being parallel.
A bump steer kit could only help. How fast is it shaking at?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I feel it coming on around 90 mph and if I am in a very slight turn it is shaking the wheel something awful!!
 

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Try taking the wheel off and moving it a lug hole over from where it is now. Although, you have the wheels Tq to spec make sure that the wheel is steated good again the spindle. If none of this takes care of the problem take the wheel to a local tire shop and have it road forced tested cuz it could be a bad tire. You might not see it on the outsite but it could be messed up on the inside causing to be out of balance at high speeds, I have seen this before when working at the dealership.

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:49 PM ----------

Another thing you can do to make sure its nothing other then the tire and wheel combo is swap the combo from the front to the back and see if it goes away if you can. It can be balanced correctly but have a bad road force.
 

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Also check if clips from the factory that hold the rotors on are not interfering. Don't know about older models, but I have heard that on newer models with aftermarket wheels they will cause a vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
southernstang00 said:
Try taking the wheel off and moving it a lug hole over from where it is now. Although, you have the wheels Tq to spec make sure that the wheel is steated good again the spindle. If none of this takes care of the problem take the wheel to a local tire shop and have it road forced tested cuz it could be a bad tire. You might not see it on the outsite but it could be messed up on the inside causing to be out of balance at high speeds, I have seen this before when working at the dealership.

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:49 PM ----------

Another thing you can do to make sure its nothing other then the tire and wheel combo is swap the combo from the front to the back and see if it goes away if you can. It can be balanced correctly but have a bad road force.
Well I had this problem with my 03 Cobra wheels and I upgrades to the 2010 GT500 wheels and still the same issues. This makes me think it is not in the alignment, balance or lug torque.
I installed Steeda's bump steer kit last night and taking it for an alignment tomorrow and in addition I will reinstall the front sway bar. I will let y'all know the outcome. Fingers crossed!!!
 

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nitrous2v said:
Well I had this problem with my 03 Cobra wheels and I upgrades to the 2010 GT500 wheels and still the same issues. This makes me think it is not in the alignment, balance or lug torque.
I installed Steeda's bump steer kit last night and taking it for an alignment tomorrow and in addition I will reinstall the front sway bar. I will let y'all know the outcome. Fingers crossed!!!
Aw Okie, good deal let us know
 

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Why did you remove the front sway bar?
 

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southernstang00 said:
I don't think it has anything to do with that, mine isn't on my car and I don't have any vibrations. Lol
I know I was just asking why you guys removed it? Your reasoning behind it
 

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Are all your bushings good? What about your ball joints and wheel bearings?
 

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Could be bad rack and pinion bushings....or could be a nipple on the tires. Check tires and pressure
 

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1996mustang said:
Could be bad rack and pinion bushings....or could be a nipple on the tires. Check tires and pressure
I think it's a combination of suspension issues. Suspension includes steering too. It also involves the knuckle, alignment front to rear, caster, camber...my advice, get real and assess from the ground up. I did. Read my posts. Gimme a holler of you need to.
 

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jdavis96gt said:
I thought Bumber steer kits weren't good for DD? U might want to check up on that.
Not true!!! End the rumor here. Bump steer (same as under steer), the term has a lot more to do with steering than the "bump" in the the terminology. As I learned from a German mech pro who taught me to do my own 4 wheel alignment in the dealership. Here's a scenario: if your car was stock, new, and you were driving 100mph, both your hands off the wheel, you hit a sharp dip, or sharp bump, what will your car do? It will leave the roadway. This is true in any application. So, a car, front wheel drive can be offset to withstand such hazard and, KEEP GOING STRAIGHT; hands off the wheel. Same principle with the rear wheel drive vehicle with a twist; the rear axel is fixed. Because the veh is lowered, U-steer reduces binding of the wrack, nothing else by allowing adjustment to the changed angled center of the car font end. If you drive into rutted roadways, the car won't be forced into its canal so easily; especially with larger front tires. The fix, CASTER ANGLE. Mind you, too much caster angle is dangerous. Just enough will fix the veh tendency to follow the roadway angles. Too little will yield equal disaster, or reduced control. If you want to know more about offset on front wheelers, gimme a holler. Important about caster, when the caster is...strong. There is a heavy dead center, steer past the dead center, and you loose control. Example, it's hard to turn past dead center angle ( 45deg) and the too easy with after. The nears to return to center. If you have that problem, your alignment is bad. Now take all that an put it on the autobahn an do 120+MPH. Get my drift? I had a good tutor.

Front end vibrations: spring too heavy for damper (stos dampher)
Sway bar (torsion-twisting shock absorber-tempered) worn, or end links not correct (sways primary function is to absorb vibrations). Rotors warped wont affect wheel balance unless its warped at the lug points, etc. it happens. Get a level and check for floating side. Check all links to wheel knuckle, to include strut mounting bolts to include steering knuckle, and strut mounting bolts. Case in point: I dragged today. Had no problem steering. I could hold my steering with a pinky, but I didn't cuz it was my first time, fun as hell. On the way home and on the track I noticed my brakes when engaged, steered me. Will fix tomorrow. Still, the point made here is that steering and suspension go hand in hand. But that brakes could deceive the unwary.
 

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LAS97GT said:
Not true!!! End the rumor here. Bump steer (same as under steer), the term has a lot more to do with steering than the "bump" in the the terminology. As I learned from a German mech pro who taught me to do my own 4 wheel alignment in the dealership. Here's a scenario: if your car was stock, new, and you were driving 100mph, both your hands off the wheel, you hit a sharp dip, or sharp bump, what will your car do? It will leave the roadway. This is true in any application. So, a car, front wheel drive can be offset to withstand such hazard and, KEEP GOING STRAIGHT; hands off the wheel. Same principle with the rear wheel drive vehicle with a twist; the rear axel is fixed. Because the veh is lowered, U-steer reduces binding of the wrack, nothing else by allowing adjustment to the changed angled center of the car font end. If you drive into rutted roadways, the car won't be forced into its canal so easily; especially with larger front tires. The fix, CASTER ANGLE. Mind you, too much caster angle is dangerous. Just enough will fix the veh tendency to follow the roadway angles. Too little will yield equal disaster, or reduced control. If you want to know more about offset on front wheelers, gimme a holler. Important about caster, when the caster is...strong. There is a heavy dead center, steer past the dead center, and you loose control. Example, it's hard to turn past dead center angle ( 45deg) and the too easy with after. The nears to return to center. If you have that problem, your alignment is bad. Now take all that an put it on the autobahn an do 120+MPH. Get my drift? I had a good tutor.

Front end vibrations: spring too heavy for damper (stos dampher)
Sway bar (torsion-twisting shock absorber-tempered) worn, or end links not correct (sways primary function is to absorb vibrations). Rotors warped wont affect wheel balance unless its warped at the lug points, etc. it happens. Get a level and check for floating side. Check all links to wheel knuckle, to include strut mounting bolts to include steering knuckle, and strut mounting bolts. Case in point: I dragged today. Had no problem steering. I could hold my steering with a pinky, but I didn't cuz it was my first time, fun as hell. On the way home and on the track I noticed my brakes when engaged, steered me. Will fix tomorrow. Still, the point made here is that steering and suspension go hand in hand. But that brakes could deceive the unwary.
Yep, on yuengling beer; sorry. Bump steer simply returns the steering assembly to stock, or manageable parameters to allow alignment and safe navigation of public roadways.
 
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