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Discussion Starter #1
Before I dive in, just want to say this will be my first post beside the introduction and I greatly appreciate everyone for taking the time to read and respond to this thread.

Backstory: I've always been used to seeing the CEL come on and off every now and then for a few seconds ever since I got the car. On my way back from class, I stopped by the gas station to fill her up. Car was running perfectly; however, as soon as I topped her off and started heading home, in the low rpms (I'd say 1000-2000) she would buck and be a little sluggish. It also sounded as if the oxygen sensor had fallen off from my x-pipe (I know because it's happened to me before), with the exhaust making a leaky, throaty sound. I read the codes from the computer and got 31, 41, & 91.

With some research, many concluded these codes don't really affect drivability, but I wanted to fix them anyway after seeing the CEL for too long. I first replaced the O2 sensors, made sure to clear the codes, and started the car. She was at 90%; however, same problem with the acceleration or just cruising around those rpms. Didn't fix the problem but it got rid of codes 41 & 91 and it was part of regular maintenance anyway.

Next, I got a new EGR position sensor (what goes behind the EGR valve) to fix Code 31. I put her in, and at the same time decided to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor. Yes, I used specific cleaning sprays, no, I didn't touch the MAF sensor. I also made sure the Spark Plug Wires weren't loose on the spark plugs or distributer, weren't touching or crossing over each other. Basically just took them off and plugged them back in (made a nice popping sound when plugged). Fired her up, took her for a drive, and she was at 100%! So relieved, I decided to meet up with some friends 30 minutes away. Took her on the highway and she was perfect. On my way home, after driving for about 10 minutes, the car started to make slight hints of the returning problems, and it got progressively worse. As I accelerate, the car will make popping sounds as if I drove the in first gear, drove it up to 3-4k, and pressed the clutch immediately with some force (best example I can give for my car and exhaust). The worst part is I don't see the CEL coming on anymore and drivability is far worse than what it was from the beginning.

So this is where I'm at right now. Mind you, idle is fine at around 700-800 and doesn't drop or raise. Leave it alone and you'd think nothing was wrong. There are no vacuum leaks; only sound coming from the engine is the infamous BBK throttle body whistle, but I'll be fixing that soon. If anyone has shared my experience, please let me know what you've done.

Again, thanks for taking the time to read this. I just wanted to make sure I'm very thorough with my experience thus far.
 

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Sometimes the CEL light won't come on for some codes.


So what you are saying is that when it warms up after driving some it will start acting sluggish and missing. I would say something electrical then like an ignition module, PIP, plug wires or the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The ignition module, plug wires, coil, cap and rotor are all less than two years old. To replace the PIP is essentially replacing the distributor, correct?
 

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You don't have to replace the distributer in order to get a new pip sensor,but some people decide to go that route.You have to remove the distributer gear from the shaft,remove the ignition module,remove the two screws holding the stator to the shaft and pull the shaft out of the distributer housing then the pip sensor can be removed.That's why some guys decide to just replace the whole distributer,but its not a hard job to do for the average mechanic.If you turn the distributer upside down and remove the ignition module, you'll see the bottom of the pip sensor.The male prongs on the ignition module plug into the female terminals on the pip sensor.Ignition modules are notorious for going out,especially if its a cheap remanufactured module instead of a Motorcraft.The link below shows you how to test the pip & ignition module.It helps to somehow warm the parts up so it simulates engine heat.Heat soak issues is normally what causes these parts to start acting up.When the engines cold they normally work fine,but as the engine gets hot they start developing problems such as yours.
SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see, thanks for the reply. I figured I'm going to buy a remanufactured distributer; it comes with a new TFI module and it would be best replacing the stock unit all together. I hope that fixes my problem!
 

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Make sure it is a good reman as the stock dizzy is usually the best.
 

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I agree with SmurfStang.

BTW-If you decide to buy a performance dizzy instead of reman at the last minute,do not buy anything from MSD
 

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I had to get 3 autozone remans on my Cobra before I got one that worked properly. It is what it is. However, the distributors on these cars are notorious for going out. If you remove the cap and see a lot of silvery "dust" in there it is most likely the PIP. Mine went bad at 65k original miles on my Cobra.


Now would be as good a time as any to upgrade to a Crane unit... just stay away from MSD and Accel.
 
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