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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok all, starting to notice the little things now that Ive been able to roll the windows down a bit more.

When I'm in reverse I am noticing a constant squeaking from what sounds like the right rear side of the car. Suspension? The brakes look fine. Any ideas how to track it down?

Thanks!
 

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How many miles? Are the LCA's original? Could be an LCA bushing or sway bar bushing.
 

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85k. Just got the car about a month ago so I'm not sure. Just had to replace the alternator. Don't know what type of maintenance was done on it.
I'd start with bushings, strange that's it's only in reverse. Maybe you could back up slowly with someone walking next to you to isolate it. No sticking caliper?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd start with bushings, strange that's it's only in reverse. Maybe you could back up slowly with someone walking next to you to isolate it. No sticking caliper?
I'm only still learning how to do my own work on the car. Heh. I'd have to read up on these. I thought I read possible u-joint as well? I would have to research to see where to start. :)
 

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The forums and other ones online are a great place to seek help and find answers. It's a continuous learning process for everyone. Get a Haynes type repair manual, they are a good reference for assemblies, torque specs, etc. Hopefully someone with a similar problem will chime in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just took it out for a drive about 30 minutes ago and listened more closely. It squeaks forward and back mostly in lower gears it appears. Definitely notice it more in reverse.
 

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I just took it out for a drive about 30 minutes ago and listened more closely. It squeaks forward and back mostly in lower gears it appears. Definitely notice it more in reverse.
Try pushing up and down on the right rear fender and almost bouncing the car. See if you hear it and try the other corners. If you hear it, then it's suspension related. It still might be an inside brake caliper, did you pull the wheels to inspect the brakes? Does it stop if you push the clutch in? Unless it's an auto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Try pushing up and down on the right rear fender and almost bouncing the car. See if you hear it and try the other corners. If you hear it, then it's suspension related. It still might be an inside brake caliper, did you pull the wheels to inspect the brakes? Does it stop if you push the clutch in? Unless it's an auto.
I did the pushing thing already, too :) No squeaking. Eliminates one problem I guess. Brake Caliper seems more probable now I guess. I think I tried the clutch as well to see and it didn't make a difference. I don't have a good tool to take the wheels off. I've been looking for a power tool but can't seem to find a good, inexpensive one.
The car is an '05 GT Manual BTW.
 

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I did the pushing thing already, too :) No squeaking. Eliminates one problem I guess. Brake Caliper seems more probable now I guess. I think I tried the clutch as well to see and it didn't make a difference. I don't have a good tool to take the wheels off. I've been looking for a power tool but can't seem to find a good, inexpensive one.
The car is an '05 GT Manual BTW.
If you're going to keep working on it, eventually you'll need an air compressor and a torque wrench (if you don't have one) The wheels torque to 100 ft lbs. Once you get an air compressor, air tools are a lot cheaper than electric. You can get an impact wrench for less than $50 or up from there. Torque wrench is critical and I think you can still one at Sears for about $100. Air tools are low maintenance and usually pretty tough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you're going to keep working on it, eventually you'll need an air compressor and a torque wrench (if you don't have one) The wheels torque to 100 ft lbs. Once you get an air compressor, air tools are a lot cheaper than electric. You can get an impact wrench for less than $50 or up from there. Torque wrench is critical and I think you can still one at Sears for about $100. Air tools are low maintenance and usually pretty tough.
Thanks for all the feedback. I've ordered the Haynes manual to read through. The trick for me is to figure out what I need to be able to jack the car up to take the wheels off. I'd like to do it without the need of a cheap jack.
 

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Thanks for all the feedback. I've ordered the Haynes manual to read through. The trick for me is to figure out what I need to be able to jack the car up to take the wheels off. I'd like to do it without the need of a cheap jack.
Other than using the jack that comes with the car, the best thing is a floor jack, you can get a 2 1/2 ton jack (plenty) for between $60 and $100. You'll use the hell out of it. But you really need to use jack stands to be safe, you can't get under a car that's on a hydralic jack. The jack stands are fairly cheap and a necessity.
 

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The more I do research I think it might be the u-joints but I bet it's easier just to replace the whole driveshaft. I wouldn't mind doing that anyway!
That's a good mod anyway, get a one piece aluminum. Lose an extra joint and save a lot of rotating weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've narrowed it down a little bit more. I can reproduce it if I go in reverse and turn the wheel to the right. Still sounds like its coming from the rear. Weird. Tried to jack it up this weekend and stick it on a couple of jack stands but my inexperience shied me away from where to put the floor jack. Heh.
 

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Wow. Turned out to be the rear brakes. Odd. Didn't happen when I applied the brakes, only when driving at slow speeds.

So much for all that other stuff. LOL!!
Glad you figured it out, get a one piece driveshaft anyway. :D
 
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