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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so after work went to start up the car turn the key made a fast clicking sound then lost all power finally got it started with some cables and made it all the way home turned the car off then I tried to start it again and it did the same thing got it jump with cables again let it idle then finally took the battery to auto zone and try said the battery is 100% charged ?? Any one might know what's going on ?? Thanks


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Loose connections around the battery.

Once, the wire going to the positive terminal was loose at the terminal. My car had the same symptoms. Easy fix.
 

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So the alternator is bad and it's just giving me enough juice when I finally get it started to drive


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Yeah it could be the alternator is bad, internal regulator is bad (in the alternator), or it could be a bad or lose connection as stated above.

If the alternator is bad, the car is running on battery power but the alternator isn't doing its part to replace that charge. But if the battery isn't actually dying then it is probably something else.

If you have a multimeter I would start it and see what the voltage looks like while it's running vs what it looks like when it's off. You should have 13~ volts on and around 12.3-12.8 when it's off. If you do then you know your alternator is charging and you know your battery is good. This only leaves the connections or some other type of electrical problem
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I just checked the alternator while running with a meter and it was at 13-14 volts I even took off the positive and it still ran off the alternator . I unhooked the battery cables and gonna let it sit over night and test the power . My connectis do look like there loose and some wire is not all the way intact with the clamp ?


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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah it could be the alternator is bad, internal regulator is bad (in the alternator), or it could be a bad or lose connection as stated above.

If the alternator is bad, the car is running on battery power but the alternator isn't doing its part to replace that charge. But if the battery isn't actually dying then it is probably something else.

If you have a multimeter I would start it and see what the voltage looks like while it's running vs what it looks like when it's off. You should have 13~ volts on and around 12.3-12.8 when it's off. If you do then you know your alternator is charging and you know your battery is good. This only leaves the connections or some other type of electrical problem

After I took the battery to the auto parts and bring it back before I hooked it back up I cleaned the positiv and negative with a kit cleaner and bristle hooked everything back up and it started both times when I started it again ?


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Yeah I just checked the alternator while running with a meter and it was at 13-14 volts I even took off the positive and it still ran off the alternator . I unhooked the battery cables and gonna let it sit over night and test the power . My connectis do look like there loose and some wire is not all the way intact with the clamp ?


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Bingo. There's your problem then
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My battery light also has been coming on but goes on and off while driving ? What could this meen !


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My battery light also has been coming on but goes on and off while driving ? What could this meen !


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Alternator ,battery ,bad ground


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Discussion Starter #12
Okay after messing with the cables wire and clamps the car is turning on and driving just like before ... But the battery light is still coming on then it shuts off then it comes back on ? I don't know what could be causing this


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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so need to just get a new altenator . What kinds are good to get


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---------- Post added at 05:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:49 PM ----------

Ok so what kind of altenator or what brand to get ?


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Prolly just ur battery bro

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---------- Post added at 04:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:56 PM ----------

Prolly just ur battery bro

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Have AutoZone or whoever check batt and alt, but I bet it's only batt

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My battery light was on when I bought my car. I ended up replacing the alternator with a reman motorcraft one. I narrowed it down to the alternator using my X4 tuner and monitoring the voltage output while driving. At 12.2 volts you ain't charging anything.

Also a bad alternator is a very good way to kill a brand spanking new battery.

2003 GT: JLT CAI, summit 75mm TB, C&L plenum, 24# injectors, Mac Prochamber, SLP LM1 cat back, 3.73 Gears, FR500 Diff, FR500 diff cover, Jmod trans and shift kit, Max Motorsports subframes, Koni oranges front and rear, DBA discs front and rear, shrader performance rear seat delete, APSX D2 wideband, MPT happy customer.
 

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Heck, it's easier to remove the battery. So, check that first.
Exactly, and batteries actually only last a few years, I've been through 3 already, still on stock alternator. If you could get the car started, just drive it down there and let them check both while still mounted in the car

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Discussion Starter #19
I've already gotten the battery checked and they said the battery is good ?


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Maybe it's the alternator.


2003 GT: JLT CAI, summit 75mm TB, C&L plenum, 24# injectors, Mac Prochamber, SLP LM1 cat back, 3.73 Gears, FR500 Diff, FR500 diff cover, Jmod trans and shift kit, Max Motorsports subframes, Koni oranges front and rear, DBA discs front and rear, shrader performance rear seat delete, APSX D2 wideband, MPT happy customer.
 
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