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I have a mustang gt 2000 So, about 4 weeks ago I had a little accident with my car. I had to wait for the parts to get here, which took about 3 weeks. I turned the car on almost everyday, but yesterday when i turned it on, after 3 or 4 minutes it just turned off by itself. What can this be?
 

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I have a mustang gt 2000 So, about 4 weeks ago I had a little accident with my car. I had to wait for the parts to get here, which took about 3 weeks. I turned the car on almost everyday, but yesterday when i turned it on, after 3 or 4 minutes it just turned off by itself. What can this be?
It sounds as though the battery may be dead, "turning the car on almost everyday", if you did not allow it to run for at least 30 to 45 minutes each time (and possibly even if you did), has likely drained the battery.

For future reference there is no need to start the engine that frequently when the car is idle for 4 to 6 weeks. Mine is a garage queen and as I generally ride my bike it sits for months without being started. I have a battery tender (a Schumacher SEN 1562A) because it sits so long, and keep the oil clean (changed every 6 months), however I never start it without driving it for at least 20+ miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
cliffyk said:
It sounds as though the battery may be dead, "turning the car on almost everyday", if you did not allow it to run for at least 30 to 45 minutes each time (and possibly even if you did), has likely drained the battery.

For future reference there is no need to start the engine that frequently when the car is idle for 4 to 6 weeks. Mine is a garage queen and as I generally ride my bike it sits for months without being started. I have a battery tender (a Schumacher SEN 1562A) because it sits so long, and keep the oil clean (changed every 6 months), however I never start it without driving it for at least 20+ miles.
Oh okay. Thank you!
 

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I thought u had to drive your car to charge battery? If u just start it and let it idle it wouldn't charge battery any. Any truth to that?
 

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The alt works at any rpm. It is more efficient at a higher rpm though. We test them at both idle and 2000 rpm. At idle with a heavy load ac on lights on etc the battery will not charge but with everything off it should charge although very slowly.
 

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Oh okay. Thank you!
An auto parts store can test your battery to see if it will hold a charge. Something similar to this just happened to me recently after a 3 week stay at a dealership for a new transmission. I got stuck at Starbucks. Anywho, I think you need to remove the battery for them to test it. You'll need an 8mm wrench or socket to loosen the battery post clamps. If the battery is over 3 years old, it's possible it will not hold a charge anymore. :good:
 

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I suspect in this specific situation the battery is just run down (though that can often do in a battery that is failing anyway), and that recharging it will save the day. One word of caution, however.

Many of the modern handheld testers, typically used at FLAPS, will not detect a failing but not yet failed cell because the load they apply is not held for a long enough period. The best test of a starting duty battery is a real high amperage (1/2 of the CCA rating) load test like that provided by this 500A tester from HF:

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Azure said:
An auto parts store can test your battery to see if it will hold a charge. Something similar to this just happened to me recently after a 3 week stay at a dealership for a new transmission. I got stuck at Starbucks. Anywho, I think you need to remove the battery for them to test it. You'll need an 8mm wrench or socket to loosen the battery post clamps. If the battery is over 3 years old, it's possible it will not hold a charge anymore. :good:
Okay. I'll get on it. Thanks guys! ;)
 
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