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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Once again I have a problem with my 2011 GT and we have absolutely no idea what causes it. When driving in warm dry weather, between 50 to 70 mph there is a great vibration in the steering wheel when turning in a medium angel. Nothing over 80 mph and nothing while driving straight. We checked the weels and the balance of the car. Also there seems to be nothing wrong with any components of the front axle or steering. The only thing that has been replaced where the lower control arm joints and where replaced with polyurethan. Anyone have any ideas on this subject. Thanks

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I have no idea except that if it started when those joints were replaced I would check them first. Put the car up on a lift and see if there is any play in the front wheels or the LCA joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks for the answer but we already did that. No play anywhere. Everything seems absolutely normal.

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Could it be that the poly is transmitting more vibration than rubber ones do and it is normal? Have you asked the manufacturer about it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That is actually not a bad idea. I will try to contact them. But I guess they will blame everything else before admitting that it could be a problem with their part.

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to give some more details about the issue. It starts like the kind of vibration that you feel when the brake rotors are really old. But then the whole car starts to shake like crazy. It feels like will rip the whole front end out. The only way to stop it is to steer straight or to slow down the car.

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Any poly mounts that replace rubber will translate NVH to the steering wheel and pedals. That in combination with the actual road condition you may experience moderate vibration. Since I went with new dampers/springs/CC plates and poly bushings there is a big increase in vibration I feel.

In my old volvo's there is a 3 bolt claw like transmission mount that when replaced with one that has poly bushings you feel a HUGE increase in vibration at the pedals. Basically what you are describing is totally normal.
 

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Umm...You really shouldn't have replaced those bushings. That sometimes freaks out the EPAS system. Your only option might be to replace the rack with B302r rack that has less sensitve settings or go back to stock CAs.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fms-m-3200-epas/overview/
A year ago, this was the standard opinion, until some of the road racers logged the controller on their steering racks, and found that most of the 2011 racks on every mustang were defective. They would be fine with the stock bushings, but would get buggy with the unlearn function when it detected a bushing change.

Find someone with a late 2012 rack, or a 13-14 to be on the safe side, and check that. Nobody has had a problem after swapping to the later rack (if that is indeed your problem, but it certainly sounds like it is).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the answers. Well the it's always the same problem. The only reason why I replaced those parts in first place was because the right one had a big rip and there ist reasonable way to get new control arms over here in Germany. Even American Muscle sells only the ones for 2010 and before. I wouldn't mind a bit of vibration. But the vibration is so bad that you have to fight to keep the car on the road.

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Tousley Ford Parts would not ship them to you? I don't have a line on a later, stock EPAS unit, but I do have a line on stock control arms. I will keep an eye out for an EPAS unit for you though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks jande let me know if you find anything.

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