Mustang Evolution Forum banner

61 - 80 of 80 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Im not sure what I am getting yet, just saying an opinion. But yeah thanks for the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
^^^ The Ebay CAI mention above comes with a 30 day money back guarantee, with shipping on the return included plus the vendor has good ratings . If it is a piece of sh**t nothing lost.:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Yeah I like it. Will see how it is when I get it because I don't see negative performance coming out of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Obviously it will get negative attention though like any other non brand name thing. If it's not a Steeda or Airaid then people don't want/like it.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
Obviously it will get negative attention though like any other non brand name thing. If it's not a Steeda or Airaid then people don't want/like it.

Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
Its your car and your money, and its not so much about the name brand as it it proven performance. Most would tell you to not buy a Roush and but a Airaid instead because its the same unit re-branded except its cheaper.

Look at the picture of that vs the airaid, steeda, K&N, AEM, etc Really any brand that is known for quality products and on the 11-14 mustangs they all have a lower tray that utilizes the stock cold air intake system. Ford actually did a really good job with that and that is why its a cold air intake system. By taking away that element of the intake you essentially just have a short ram intake opposed to a CAI that is pulling in hot engine air. Another big issue I see is the multi-piece intake tube. Generally a quality intake that short will have a single tube so that air can flow smoothly through it. This is likely done because its a really cheap unit so the parts are made to be interchangeable for different cars so they can mass produce a couple parts and make them fit on multiple cars. And the last big issue is the filter itself. Its labeled as a 'high performance filter' I've seen filters like this side by side K&N's in the cheap inport section of Advanced Auto parts when I used to work there. There extremely cheap and no where in the same ball part as a quality K&N filter. I could only imagine all the crap that will let through into your engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I agree but I don't think it's going to make a big negative impact. The filter I completely agree and would just buy a new filter to put on it which would still make it much cheaper than a name brand. The pieces that connect to each other and stuff like that though I don't think will make a big difference. Maybe like 1 HP if that. Honestly.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
If each of the things I listed lose a minimum of 1-3 hp your talking spending money to lose 3-9 hp. Doesn't seem like an effective use of money for noise which is why everyone is saying to stay away.

But it's your car and your money so do what you want. Just know everyone is saying to stay away bc it's a cheap pos that offers no performance benefits which is reflective in the price. Not because it's not a "name brand". Myself and everyone else here have nothing to gain by steeda or airaid selling more units. These are recommended because there quality parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
You're not going to loose 3-9 HP lol I'm all for opinions but not stupid claims.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
You're not going to loose 3-9 HP lol I'm all for opinions but not stupid claims.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution

You'd be surprised how high quality the OEM stock box is in comparison to CAI's in general, losing a chunk of hp like that is very possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,710 Posts
This was many years ago, on a different platform, so the results arent "apples to apples" per se' but the general idea is the same.

We saw a tremendous change going from an SRI located in the engine bay to a CAI located in the fender well, like 2-3 10ths and a few mph difference, and this was on an Na 4 cylinder. I can imagine a larger engine needing more air will respond more favorably, or consequently poorly, to either cool or hot air.

Now, i dont really have any quantifiable data in this case to say why the Ebay one is necessarily a poor choice, just that i'm not really feeling it. Dont get me wrong, i try to save a buck where i can, but after doing this for quite some time now, you kind of learn that you're really not saving yourself much in the end.

Really my only gripe is that accordion-esque coupler immediately post MAF sensor ... it could very well be fine, but i'm going to go out on a limb and assume that intake was not designed and dataloged to check the stability of the MAF voltage. I feel like i've said this before, and it may very well have been in this thread, i cant remember ... At any rate, i've had to tune a few "custom" intakes before, and when the MAF volts are all over the damn place and i cant construct a good fuel curve, i'm going to tell you to hit the road or get a new intake. Its a pretty critical part of the system, its a little bit more than just the hot air / cold air debate.

Just my .02, it could very well work just fine, Just take my rant for what its worth.
 

·
Admin
Joined
·
5,822 Posts
I agree with you. I hate how people bash on CAI because most of them are "just a for sound" don't don't do much for performance. In my opinion, sound is super important, especially for cars with performance driving in mind. There is a reason that exotic cars use high revving v8/10/12 motors. Sound is so important that many car manufacturers today are using fake/engineered sound that is piped/played through the cabin just for the aural stimulation that it brings. To me, sound is just as important as adding horsepower.


Sent from my iPad using Mustang Evolution
Think it's bad with the Mustang? Just a short while ago, someone posted here on ME that the Formula One cars no longer make that "high pitched" engine noise anymore, and the fans are in a somewhat uproar. I think the engine displacement changed on them. Don't think it changes their speed though. Maybe a sound tube directed at the crowds will make the fans happy again. :blink:

So, sound is in the hands (or better, ears) of the beholder.

Personally, I'd rather spend my money on a mod that's going to make my Mustang handle better, or go quicker. Sound does neither in these two departments.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Now, i dont really have any quantifiable data in this case to say why the Ebay one is necessarily a poor choice, just that i'm not really feeling it. Dont get me wrong, i try to save a buck where i can, but after doing this for quite some time now, you kind of learn that you're really not saving yourself much in the end.

Really my only gripe is that accordion-esque coupler immediately post MAF sensor ... it could very well be fine, but i'm going to go out on a limb and assume that intake was not designed and dataloged to check the stability of the MAF voltage. I feel like i've said this before, and it may very well have been in this thread, i cant remember ... At any rate, i've had to tune a few "custom" intakes before, and when the MAF volts are all over the damn place and i cant construct a good fuel curve, i'm going to tell you to hit the road or get a new intake. Its a pretty critical part of the system, its a little bit more than just the hot air / cold air debate.

Just my .02, it could very well work just fine, Just take my rant for what its worth.
Thanks for the pointer. This is also an Ebay CAI for the V6 3.7 Pony but looks like a poor device (sells for 99.00$) CAI-FD013BK.jpg in comparison to one mention above :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,710 Posts
Eek lol, i'm not a fan of those "tuned" MAF diameters, just make the damn intake the right size. Its also incredibly hard to tell from that picture, but i'd like to see that air filter compared to another intake in terms of CFM capabilities. It looks to be a bit on the small side.

Air Filter Calculations
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
This might be a "dumb" question and might have been brought up before but would our stock intakes on a 2013 V6 be considered a cold air intake? since it directly draws air in from the grill which would be cold air and no engine heat? because I want a cold air intake for sound and looks but just weighing out the pros and cons. there are always those cold air intake debates and how good they are or if they even do anything but I am just considering getting one because I had one on my 5.0 which got totaled about a month ago and now need to start from stock with my 2013 V6,thanks!
A good 'Cold Air Intake' will only work if you install a K & N free flow filter. They do cost $50, but well worth it.
Dyno tested, it will add about 5-10 HP to your car. This will make both you and the car happy.
Premium gas and synthetic oil helps too. If your car has 80,000 +/- miles, you might consider a 'Flowmaster' catalyc converter.
Make sure you get the non-Calif compliant one; Unless you live in Calif. Replace your fuel pump and filter. Put in a set of low ohm
spark plug wires. I replaced my spark plugs (in my 1990 Miata) with high performance racing Silver spark plugs, but they do have a short life (10,000 miles).
Otherwise good quality copper plugs are great. Platinum & Iridium last the longest, but will not give you as good a spark.
If you do all these things, you may feel the difference in performance. I have a new (2014) Mustang V6 Premium being delivered
next week, but it's more new than used (14,000 miles). I'm only going to install new copper plugs and low ohm wires. Change the engine, Trans & Diff
to synthetic oil. Replace the air filter with a K & N. This is just called, "Being Good to Your Car". The only major change, will be replacing the 2-part drive shaft
with a 'One Piece 3 1/2" Aluminum Shaft'. It's about 30 pounds lighter. They are a little expensive, $700 to $800, but when it's done, it's done.
I will also tweak the 'Governor' so it doesn't limit my Mustang to 115 mph. It will do 156 mph. If your kids have a car, you can lower the max speed to 80 or 90 mph.
BUT...Be careful.....Think what could happen......Your son or daughter is passing a truck on a two way hwy and needs more speed, because there is a car coming
straight for him or her. So, don't lower it too much or not at all. I have passed many trucks at 100+ mph because of on coming cars. I'm really excited. This will be
my first Mustang. My vintage Miata is one thing, but this will be a whole new ball-game.......Good luck to all your guys and gals...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
A good 'Cold Air Intake' will only work if you install a K & N free flow filter. They do cost $50, but well worth it.
Dyno tested, it will add about 5-10 HP to your car. This will make both you and the car happy.
Premium gas and synthetic oil helps too. If your car has 80,000 +/- miles, you might consider a 'Flowmaster' catalyc converter.
Make sure you get the non-Calif compliant one; Unless you live in Calif. Replace your fuel pump and filter. Put in a set of low ohm
spark plug wires. I replaced my spark plugs (in my 1990 Miata) with high performance racing Silver spark plugs, but they do have a short life (10,000 miles).
Otherwise good quality copper plugs are great. Platinum & Iridium last the longest, but will not give you as good a spark.
If you do all these things, you may feel the difference in performance. I have a new (2014) Mustang V6 Premium being delivered
next week, but it's more new than used (14,000 miles). I'm only going to install new copper plugs and low ohm wires. Change the engine, Trans & Diff
to synthetic oil. Replace the air filter with a K & N. This is just called, "Being Good to Your Car". The only major change, will be replacing the 2-part drive shaft
with a 'One Piece 3 1/2" Aluminum Shaft'. It's about 30 pounds lighter. They are a little expensive, $700 to $800, but when it's done, it's done.
I will also tweak the 'Governor' so it doesn't limit my Mustang to 115 mph. It will do 156 mph. If your kids have a car, you can lower the max speed to 80 or 90 mph.
BUT...Be careful.....Think what could happen......Your son or daughter is passing a truck on a two way hwy and needs more speed, because there is a car coming
straight for him or her. So, don't lower it too much or not at all. I have passed many trucks at 100+ mph because of on coming cars. I'm really excited. This will be
my first Mustang. My vintage Miata is one thing, but this will be a whole new ball-game.......Good luck to all your guys and gals...
OK you woke up a 6.5 year old thread to spread untruths.
The car has a CAI from Ford, works well and the K&N does nothing for HP gains, no tune no gain, The Module Intake Tube gets rid of the Silencer and might net 2 HP due to freer flow. The only thing the K&N is good for is it can be cleaned and reused
Premium gas does net 6-8 HP over regular gas since it has an adaptive ECU, but switching oil not so much, unless you are going to drop the oil to a 0w10 but your motor will suffer in the long run and it will only help the motor pick up RPM quicker since it has less friction because of the lower weight rating. Synthetic oil is still Dino Based oil, it is the additives that are synthetic and since I change it more than most I will stick to the oil it came with.
If your Catalytic Converters are working it is stupid to replace them, Flowmaster Cats are a 49 state replacement that might be less free flowing than the OEM, enough said.
Fuel pump, if your fuel pressure is where it needs to be the fuel pump is good, and if it is not starving at high RPM the fuel filter is good to since it is part of the fuel pump and requires the fuel pump to be pulled out to replace.
Spark plug wires are not even on this car, the V6 has Coil on Plugs, now my 6.2 has plug wires running from the COP to the lower plugs since it has 16 plugs but the V6 only has the 1 per cylinder.
Spark Plugs when replaced it is best to use Motorcraft, your car will thank you and continue running. Ford motors are notorious for not liking after market plugs or COPS.
BTW I have an 4" aluminum 2 piece drive shaft, this is not the old days with a one piece drive shaft no matter who says it is, actual parts between the U Joints is 2 or the shaft would either bend or stretch till it breaks.
Tuner gets rid of the speed limiter, but don't get carried away until the Driveshaft is replaced. If you get the V6 up to 156 I want to see the speedo so wear your Go Pro.
We have some pretty knowledgeable members here so if you need help someone will chime in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
Green Mustang.


With just 14,000 miles on your Mustang, I wouldn't do anything to it. I've seen dyno video's on youtube comparing the K&N drop in filter to the factory paper air filter. The K&N lost 1 or 2 horsepower :(. Changing the driveshaft to an aluminum one is a good thing to do. My aluminum driveshaft weighed around 10 pounds less than the factory one. The 30 pound weight loss are for the GT driveshafts not for the v6's :(. Don't start changing things like your sparkplugs. Your fuel filter is a life time filter built with the fuel pump in the gas tank :(. You need to read and learn about our v6's :)[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
This might be a "dumb" question and might have been brought up before but would our stock intakes on a 2013 V6 be considered a cold air intake? since it directly draws air in from the grill which would be cold air and no engine heat? because I want a cold air intake for sound and looks but just weighing out the pros and cons. there are always those cold air intake debates and how good they are or if they even do anything but I am just considering getting one because I had one on my 5.0 which got totaled about a month ago and now need to start from stock with my 2013 V6,thanks!
The air filter, plug wires, silver spark plugs and a new cat really helped my little 1990 Miata MX-5. I gained a lot of low end torque. Remember guys and gals; This blog is just for fun.
My new, 2014, Mustang V6 Premium Manual is going to be delivered this week. Only 14,000 miles. A real find. I already bought 6 qts of synthetic oil and K&N oil filter...and...a K&N Engine air filter.
I'll have to get used to it. I always drive my Miata with a heavy foot. 320 HP vs 115 HP....but the Miata only weighs 2,200 pounds vs 3,500 pounds for the Mustang. At 73 years old, I finally got around to buying a Mustang. My very first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Green Mustang.


With just 14,000 miles on your Mustang, I wouldn't do anything to it. I've seen dyno video's on youtube comparing the K&N drop in filter to the factory paper air filter. The K&N lost 1 or 2 horsepower :(. Changing the driveshaft to an aluminum one is a good thing to do. My aluminum driveshaft weighed around 10 pounds less than the factory one. The 30 pound weight loss are for the GT driveshafts not for the v6's :(. Don't start changing things like your sparkplugs. Your fuel filter is a life time filter built with the fuel pump in the gas tank :(. You need to read and learn about our v6's :)
[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
You are so right. I have tons to learn. I'm not going to change my 2014 very much. Besides synthetic oil and filter, I'm going to increase the limiter to 140 mph and a one piece aluminum driveshaft. After that, I'm just going to enjoy the ride. I posted a picture on Facebook, if interested...The Green Machine,,,,LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,307 Posts
The air filter, plug wires, silver spark plugs and a new cat really helped my little 1990 Miata MX-5. I gained a lot of low end torque. Remember guys and gals; This blog is just for fun.
My new, 2014, Mustang V6 Premium Manual is going to be delivered this week. Only 14,000 miles. A real find. I already bought 6 qts of synthetic oil and K&N oil filter...and...a K&N Engine air filter.
I'll have to get used to it. I always drive my Miata with a heavy foot. 320 HP vs 115 HP....but the Miata only weighs 2,200 pounds vs 3,500 pounds for the Mustang. At 73 years old, I finally got around to buying a Mustang. My very first.
The only thing I was doing was pointing out the facts that so many have come up with on our cars, my CAI was an appearance item since it does nothing but look better under the hood.
I have a Performance Package 2013 that plays in the mountains, everything that I have found that can be done and legal in all 50 states that increased torque and low end has been. Handling was worked on also with the car leveled up a bit to transfer weight to the rear and it has gone well north of 1.2 G's on the built in G meter.
304460

I also have done a Brembo Conversion to the Front and 2013-14 GT500 rear conversion for better braking.
But you are right, we are here to have fun so enjoy.
My Car and Myself having Fun on the Tail of the Dragon.
304461
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
I'm 68 year old an my Mustang will run low 13's quarter mile. I ran a 5.1 0 to 60 time and didn't hook up until 45 mph (G-Tech timed). Read and learn about our little v6 Mustangs. They are special. I've broke a lot of hearts on Hemi Mopar products. Don't over do it and go slow on your mods. The factory spark plugs are the best. You won't need to change them for a long time. I'm at 39,000 miles on my 2011 and no where near needing to change them. I bet you have the crap 2,73 rear gear ratio that is only for good gas mileage :( Their is a white sticker on the right side of the rear end pumpkin with the gear ratio. I ordered mine with the optional 3.31 gear ratio, It wasn't enough for me so I had my local Ford dealer change the gears to 3.73 and love them :) The factory shocks are pure crap. The 6 inch nose dive under hard brakings is bad. I changed mine out at around 5,000 miles with Koni orange. Koni yellow (adjustable) would be better but I'm broke :(
 
61 - 80 of 80 Posts
Top