Im not sure what I am getting yet, just saying an opinion. But yeah thanks for the input.
Its your car and your money, and its not so much about the name brand as it it proven performance. Most would tell you to not buy a Roush and but a Airaid instead because its the same unit re-branded except its cheaper.Obviously it will get negative attention though like any other non brand name thing. If it's not a Steeda or Airaid then people don't want/like it.
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You're not going to loose 3-9 HP lol I'm all for opinions but not stupid claims.
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Think it's bad with the Mustang? Just a short while ago, someone posted here on ME that the Formula One cars no longer make that "high pitched" engine noise anymore, and the fans are in a somewhat uproar. I think the engine displacement changed on them. Don't think it changes their speed though. Maybe a sound tube directed at the crowds will make the fans happy again. :blink:I agree with you. I hate how people bash on CAI because most of them are "just a for sound" don't don't do much for performance. In my opinion, sound is super important, especially for cars with performance driving in mind. There is a reason that exotic cars use high revving v8/10/12 motors. Sound is so important that many car manufacturers today are using fake/engineered sound that is piped/played through the cabin just for the aural stimulation that it brings. To me, sound is just as important as adding horsepower.
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Thanks for the pointer. This is also an Ebay CAI for the V6 3.7 Pony but looks like a poor device (sells for 99.00$) in comparison to one mention aboveNow, i dont really have any quantifiable data in this case to say why the Ebay one is necessarily a poor choice, just that i'm not really feeling it. Dont get me wrong, i try to save a buck where i can, but after doing this for quite some time now, you kind of learn that you're really not saving yourself much in the end.
Really my only gripe is that accordion-esque coupler immediately post MAF sensor ... it could very well be fine, but i'm going to go out on a limb and assume that intake was not designed and dataloged to check the stability of the MAF voltage. I feel like i've said this before, and it may very well have been in this thread, i cant remember ... At any rate, i've had to tune a few "custom" intakes before, and when the MAF volts are all over the damn place and i cant construct a good fuel curve, i'm going to tell you to hit the road or get a new intake. Its a pretty critical part of the system, its a little bit more than just the hot air / cold air debate.
Just my .02, it could very well work just fine, Just take my rant for what its worth.
A good 'Cold Air Intake' will only work if you install a K & N free flow filter. They do cost $50, but well worth it.This might be a "dumb" question and might have been brought up before but would our stock intakes on a 2013 V6 be considered a cold air intake? since it directly draws air in from the grill which would be cold air and no engine heat? because I want a cold air intake for sound and looks but just weighing out the pros and cons. there are always those cold air intake debates and how good they are or if they even do anything but I am just considering getting one because I had one on my 5.0 which got totaled about a month ago and now need to start from stock with my 2013 V6,thanks!
OK you woke up a 6.5 year old thread to spread untruths.A good 'Cold Air Intake' will only work if you install a K & N free flow filter. They do cost $50, but well worth it.
Dyno tested, it will add about 5-10 HP to your car. This will make both you and the car happy.
Premium gas and synthetic oil helps too. If your car has 80,000 +/- miles, you might consider a 'Flowmaster' catalyc converter.
Make sure you get the non-Calif compliant one; Unless you live in Calif. Replace your fuel pump and filter. Put in a set of low ohm
spark plug wires. I replaced my spark plugs (in my 1990 Miata) with high performance racing Silver spark plugs, but they do have a short life (10,000 miles).
Otherwise good quality copper plugs are great. Platinum & Iridium last the longest, but will not give you as good a spark.
If you do all these things, you may feel the difference in performance. I have a new (2014) Mustang V6 Premium being delivered
next week, but it's more new than used (14,000 miles). I'm only going to install new copper plugs and low ohm wires. Change the engine, Trans & Diff
to synthetic oil. Replace the air filter with a K & N. This is just called, "Being Good to Your Car". The only major change, will be replacing the 2-part drive shaft
with a 'One Piece 3 1/2" Aluminum Shaft'. It's about 30 pounds lighter. They are a little expensive, $700 to $800, but when it's done, it's done.
I will also tweak the 'Governor' so it doesn't limit my Mustang to 115 mph. It will do 156 mph. If your kids have a car, you can lower the max speed to 80 or 90 mph.
BUT...Be careful.....Think what could happen......Your son or daughter is passing a truck on a two way hwy and needs more speed, because there is a car coming
straight for him or her. So, don't lower it too much or not at all. I have passed many trucks at 100+ mph because of on coming cars. I'm really excited. This will be
my first Mustang. My vintage Miata is one thing, but this will be a whole new ball-game.......Good luck to all your guys and gals...
The air filter, plug wires, silver spark plugs and a new cat really helped my little 1990 Miata MX-5. I gained a lot of low end torque. Remember guys and gals; This blog is just for fun.This might be a "dumb" question and might have been brought up before but would our stock intakes on a 2013 V6 be considered a cold air intake? since it directly draws air in from the grill which would be cold air and no engine heat? because I want a cold air intake for sound and looks but just weighing out the pros and cons. there are always those cold air intake debates and how good they are or if they even do anything but I am just considering getting one because I had one on my 5.0 which got totaled about a month ago and now need to start from stock with my 2013 V6,thanks!
With just 14,000 miles on your Mustang, I wouldn't do anything to it. I've seen dyno video's on youtube comparing the K&N drop in filter to the factory paper air filter. The K&N lost 1 or 2 horsepower . Changing the driveshaft to an aluminum one is a good thing to do. My aluminum driveshaft weighed around 10 pounds less than the factory one. The 30 pound weight loss are for the GT driveshafts not for the v6's . Don't start changing things like your sparkplugs. Your fuel filter is a life time filter built with the fuel pump in the gas tank . You need to read and learn about our v6's
The only thing I was doing was pointing out the facts that so many have come up with on our cars, my CAI was an appearance item since it does nothing but look better under the hood.The air filter, plug wires, silver spark plugs and a new cat really helped my little 1990 Miata MX-5. I gained a lot of low end torque. Remember guys and gals; This blog is just for fun.
My new, 2014, Mustang V6 Premium Manual is going to be delivered this week. Only 14,000 miles. A real find. I already bought 6 qts of synthetic oil and K&N oil filter...and...a K&N Engine air filter.
I'll have to get used to it. I always drive my Miata with a heavy foot. 320 HP vs 115 HP....but the Miata only weighs 2,200 pounds vs 3,500 pounds for the Mustang. At 73 years old, I finally got around to buying a Mustang. My very first.