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These cranks rarely fail. Normally the rods stretch and let go. But if you think you want to put down that much power, start shopping for a different block. The stock short block won't take that for very long. If you think otherwise, stand back and grab some speedidry, a broom, and a bucket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
muscledom said:
These cranks rarely fail. Normally the rods stretch and let go. But if you think you want to put down that much power, start shopping for a different block. The stock short block won't take that for very long. If you think otherwise, stand back and grab some speedidry, a broom, and a bucket.
Haha alright thanks. I'm swapping my v6 for a 4.6 but ya I might look at a new block. Thanks for the help
 

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Claypops said:
Haha alright thanks. I'm swapping my v6 for a 4.6 but ya I might look at a new block. Thanks for the help
Ahh that's cool man. Might wanna look at the windsor block, it's the iron one like in the terminators. Stock 3vs are Romeo blocks (aluminum). I'm not sure how interchangeable all the parts are among the mod motors. Might be worth looking in to. But I'd let your engine builder make all those decisions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
muscledom said:
Ahh that's cool man. Might wanna look at the windsor block, it's the iron one like in the terminators. Stock 3vs are Romeo blocks (aluminum). I'm not sure how interchangeable all the parts are among the mod motors. Might be worth looking in to. But I'd let your engine builder make all those decisions.
I hear that they are aluminum but it really looks like an iron block. Why is that? And ya I've looked at some tedskid blocks. I mean it's sitting in my Garage and look at it so maybe I just don't know?..
 

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Claypops said:
I hear that they are aluminum but it really looks like an iron block. Why is that? And ya I've looked at some tedskid blocks. I mean it's sitting in my Garage and look at it so maybe I just don't know?..
Well other than the obvious difference in the appearance of the two metals, the iron blocks have a big "w" on the drivers side of the block.
 

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The stock motor can handle up to 450 RWHP. You wont get up to 650-675 HP without a forged block, a stronger tranny, and an upgraded fuel system. Cost wouldnt be an issue would it? That's the only thing stopping me, my final goal is over 600+ HP as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The stock motor can handle up to 450 RWHP. You wont get up to 650-675 HP without a forged block, a stronger tranny, and an upgraded fuel system. Cost wouldnt be an issue would it? That's the only thing stopping me, my final goal is over 600+ HP as well.
No money isn't an issue. I'm saving up piece by piece. I know it's goin to take me a long time but it'll be worth it. And ya I'm upgrading all that. I have the heads and block Being machined already. New springs and the block is getting board 20 over. And ya prob e85. I just need to know if I NEED a new crank with forged pistons and rods
 

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Claypops said:
No money isn't an issue. I'm saving up piece by piece. I know it's goin to take me a long time but it'll be worth it. And ya I'm upgrading all that. I have the heads and block Being machined already. New springs and the block is getting board 20 over. And ya prob e85. I just need to know if I NEED a new crank with forged pistons and rods
If you plan on making that level of power you need a forged rotating assembly for sure. I also recommend full arp2000 hardware and arp head studs. As for the block I think you should be ok with the stock One but I wouldn't push it past 650hp. It would be a wise investment to get a stronger block. If you could be happy with 550 hp you're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you plan on making that level of power you need a forged rotating assembly for sure. I also recommend full arp2000 hardware and arp head studs. As for the block I think you should be ok with the stock One but I wouldn't push it past 650hp. It would be a wise investment to get a stronger block. If you could be happy with 550 hp you're good to go.
Ok I'll look into those studs man thanks. And this is a dd so 650 will be plenty! I looked at a tekskid block but mine will work.
 

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-your block is fine !
-connecting rods are a MUST
-pistons are a MUST
-your crank will be ok... if your on a budget but is a wise 6-7-$800 insurance, but seriously when was the last time a crank walked in a block ?!?!
-ARP2000 bolts
and cometic head gaskets
and hardened spark plug threads, seen a few spark plugs strip/pop right out of the head on the dyno, not to mention any names (patriot) lol
anyways there is my 3:25 am drunken knowledge as I have what appears to be what ppl dream of in a s197 :p
 

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I know this is on another forum, but I thought you might like to see a thread I made since your goal is 600+ HP. (What does it take to make 600+ HP on an 08 GT? - Ford Mustang Forums) A good bit of people making over 600 HP chimed in about their experiences.

I should've reprhased it, your motor completely stock can handle up to 450 RWHP but like DaBluedude said, it's the rotating assembly that should be beefed up before you start pushing over 500+ HP.. Learned that last week actually. Rods are an absolute must like already stated, here's a bit more info about the pistons and rods.

"Con rods break (450 to 500 hp): The stock powdered-metal connecting rods are generally the three-valve motor's weakest link. Burcham has seen random failures of stock rods as low as 450 hp; "500hp and higher for an extended time period will definitely break them."
Pistons disintegrate (detonation): Although not that strong, as a rule, the stock hypereutectic pistons outlast the rods. But if there's even slight detonation, the pistons can shatter into hundreds of pieces. Replace the weak stockers with quality aftermarket forged pistons."

Good luck with this build Claypops! And agreed, it will be worth it over time. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know this is on another forum, but I thought you might like to see a thread I made since your goal is 600+ HP. (What does it take to make 600+ HP on an 08 GT? - Ford Mustang Forums) A good bit of people making over 600 HP chimed in about their experiences.

I should've reprhased it, your motor completely stock can handle up to 450 RWHP but like DaBluedude said, it's the rotating assembly that should be beefed up before you start pushing over 500+ HP.. Learned that last week actually. Rods are an absolute must like already stated, here's a bit more info about the pistons and rods.

"Con rods break (450 to 500 hp): The stock powdered-metal connecting rods are generally the three-valve motor's weakest link. Burcham has seen random failures of stock rods as low as 450 hp; "500hp and higher for an extended time period will definitely break them."
Pistons disintegrate (detonation): Although not that strong, as a rule, the stock hypereutectic pistons outlast the rods. But if there's even slight detonation, the pistons can shatter into hundreds of pieces. Replace the weak stockers with quality aftermarket forged pistons."

Good luck with this build Claypops! And agreed, it will be worth it over time. :D
Oh awesome! But it still didn't say anything about the crank? But I will look at that thread. Thanks for the help. It's going to come in handy. The hardest thing with the swap from a v6 to v8 is i have to replace everything! You building yours?
 
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