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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I started on my whole setup today and since I had only a few hours of daylight didn't get insanely far. I started on the front with the struts as it seemed like it would be the hardest part of the install.

Having Koni Str.t struts and H&R SS springs and Maximum Motorsports 11-13 caster camber plates I needed to get the stock struts apart to get the top isolator for reuse with the MM CC plates. I got the one strut apart by undoing the strut nut while it was still in the car before undoing anything else. Worked but was a royal pain in the ass. As for the other side, not exactly sure what to do. It is already apart but I can't get the strut apart. I don't really want to reassemble the stock strut into the car just to do the same thing. Lesson learned.

How do I get the top nut off when all the thing does is spin? I tried holding the main pipe down with pliers since I don't care if it gets damaged and no dice still spins on me.

Any suggestions?

Also difference between stock springs and H&K SS

 

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You can do several ways.
If you have time/patience and want the safer less damaging to OEM srut mounts take whole assembly out and go get a 30-40 dollar spring compressor kit and you can remove it completely out and then take apart. Or a buddys shop with a OTC or whatever wall mount compressor you can get to.
If you dont want to **** with a lot of time and in a press to do things you get some good grip on that shaft with knipex or channel locks.Put some serious arm on it man. If you want and have the tools use vice grips !!
If you had a pass thru KD socket set you could get on the top with the 10mm or whatever (can't remember) and then get on the nut.
If you got a crows foot (won't fit great but can work) if made bulky then grind it down if it does not fit down in there.
Air gun? Spins it faster and can break it loose sometimes too.
I have done it all the ways. If you were near me I let you use my compressor tool kit. Hell I sell ya one if you want, but you may get a knock-off brand by performance tool and parts house and some have a rental program like O'reillys. Probably 35.00 bucks to just buy it.
You will be pretty pleased with the Koni's. I just put some on myself and love them.
Hope some of these help. If you just want it done and not worried about damage to oem mounts to save or burr on shaft put vice grips on TIGHT or use some arm on channel locks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You can do several ways.
If you have time/patience and want the safer less damaging to OEM srut mounts take whole assembly out and go get a 30-40 dollar spring compressor kit and you can remove it completely out and then take apart. Or a buddys shop with a OTC or whatever wall mount compressor you can get to.
If you dont want to **** with a lot of time and in a press to do things you get some good grip on that shaft with knipex or channel locks.Put some serious arm on it man. If you want and have the tools use vice grips !!
If you had a pass thru KD socket set you could get on the top with the 10mm or whatever (can't remember) and then get on the nut.
If you got a crows foot (won't fit great but can work) if made bulky then grind it down if it does not fit down in there.
Air gun? Spins it faster and can break it loose sometimes too.
I have done it all the ways. If you were near me I let you use my compressor tool kit. Hell I sell ya one if you want, but you may get a knock-off brand by performance tool and parts house and some have a rental program like O'reillys. Probably 35.00 bucks to just buy it.
You will be pretty pleased with the Koni's. I just put some on myself and love them.
Hope some of these help. If you just want it done and not worried about damage to oem mounts to save or burr on shaft put vice grips on TIGHT or use some arm on channel locks.
Thanks for the advise. I do have a spring compressor and tried that. The strut still just spins and spins while trying to loosen the strut nut.

seems like what is going to be easiest is assembling the side I have done tomorrow and then putting the other side partially back in so it gets compressed and take it apart. That is how I got the drivers side apart after already having pulled the passenger sound out.

I couldn't find an airgun kit cheap as 35 dollars tho...electric guns maybe. Though might they be enough to just get it off?
 

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Nah a good gun is a IR and you looking at 190.00 to 389.00.
But wait....You have the whole assembly out? All you have to do is compress the spring with you spring compressor kit.....Then, on the very tip of shaft you can put a wrench to hold it while wrenching the Nut off. If thats trouble then lay it over put vice grip or channel locks on and put some serious ass on holding that shaft from turning while you loosen the big nut.
Respect the thing though. I was in a customers shop one time when he had some bs rigged and it snapped and sprung into a cinder block wall knocking a hole in it. Sounded like a shot-gun. You be alright man. You can get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nah a good gun is a IR and you looking at 190.00 to 389.00.
But wait....You have the whole assembly out? All you have to do is compress the spring with you spring compressor kit.....Then, on the very tip of shaft you can put a wrench to hold it while wrenching the Nut off. If thats trouble then lay it over put vice grip or channel locks on and put some serious ass on holding that shaft from turning while you loosen the big nut.
Respect the thing though. I was in a customers shop one time when he had some bs rigged and it snapped and sprung into a cinder block wall knocking a hole in it. Sounded like a shot-gun. You be alright man. You can get it.
ahhh I didn't think to try it that way, ok that makes sense. Yeah I picked up a heavy duty spring compressor. I really only got it because I thought if the springs drop me too low I might want to change them later and then I have all the tools.

Worst case I looked and harbor freight has a 1/2" electric impact wrench that is corded and does up too 230 ft/lbs. I would think that is enough for doing a few struts haha. It is $50 and would be nice to have.

My dad purchased an air compressor a few months back, but he got one that isn't very powerful and is below the ratings of any impact wrench I've seen. I never purchased one because of this. At some point I might get a real impact wrench with a good air compressor. Wish he would have told me he was getting one as I would have gone in on it with him to get a really nice one we could share.

Thanks for your help BTW!
 

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The Blue Dragon
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Glad to see the install is finally under way. Honestly it'd probably be worth the $40 or so a shop would charge you to do this. Spring compressors are a pain in the butt for sure. Otherwise, I had a second set of hands with big channels locks holding the shaft to prevent spinning while I removed the top nut
 

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Glad to see the install is finally under way. Honestly it'd probably be worth the $40 or so a shop would charge you to do this. Spring compressors are a pain in the butt for sure. Otherwise, I had a second set of hands with big channels locks holding the shaft to prevent spinning while I removed the top nut
+1 Bottom line is this. There are several types of DIY spring compressors. This is the most sure and safest way and you can save stuff without screwing it up. Or carry to somebody who has a wall mount compressor. As for when you put channel locks or vice grips put it up high as possible and the travel there will or should never be a issue if you did burr it a little which probably won't.
Even me, and I sell tools for a living man, a Truck full of Air tools plus everything you can imagine, yet I never even dragged out any of my air tools for the install. Have big compressor too, but just didnt need to. You should have no trouble doing like the way explained. The spring compressors that are cheap but have 4-U bolts and nuts in the kit are pretty safe. I would not put assembly back in and use jack on "A" arm method. You got it out all together just spend 40.00 on knock-off tool. The Jack and "A" method is highly likely to bust open the OEM mount and you don't want that.....and can be dangerous although we all have done it before probably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you guys for the help!

I am just going to pick up this really nice corded impact wrench from lowes. Thing seems to be a beast at least for what I want. I also know I will use it again with my many projects to come.

I haven't even gone out to work on it as everyone blew me off today for a ride to friggin lowes and I will need a helper for all of 5 mins to put the 5 nuts on the CC plates once I put the strut assembly in the car. Going out shortly to finally get the friggin impact wrench.

Figure I better just do it right. The back looks like it should be quick and easy compared to the front which is why I did the front first. Now if I can just remember where I put my hex screw driver set for the bumpstop screws...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well got an electric impact wrench and bam easy as cake. Now I am just waiting for my helper to get here so we can get the CC plate bolts in and then I am in business to finish the rest tonight. Hope Tire Discounters can do my alignment tomorrow.

Suspension part Suspension Auto part Shock absorber
 

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I hear ya....You cut some off the bumps? How much drop are those springs? You need any TQ. specs on susp. stuff give me holla. I got about all them or ones that seem most important IMO. Glad you getting done bro.....I have had mine on for about 7 to 10 days. Hell they layed in my floor since december. Was just waiting on decent day of weather. I also had to send one of my front konis back, noticed it upon arrival. Brand new and bad out the box. Just one of those things but they took care of me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I hear ya....You cut some off the bumps? How much drop are those springs? You need any TQ. specs on susp. stuff give me holla. I got about all them or ones that seem most important IMO. Glad you getting done bro.....I have had mine on for about 7 to 10 days. Hell they layed in my floor since december. Was just waiting on decent day of weather. I also had to send one of my front konis back, noticed it upon arrival. Brand new and bad out the box. Just one of those things but they took care of me.
I didn't yet actually. I wasn't thinking when I responded to your PM but I got the FRPP bumps that are intended for lowered cars. Figured I would just see how it is first. If it bottoms out to much I'll cut them. Since I have the right tools now to do it no big deal.

I got the TQ specs and followed them pretty closely, specially on the CC plates.

The front end is done and I am going to go do the back end here real quick. It looks easy compared to the front which is why I wanted to do it second.

Initial impressions, the car sits perfect. I wouldn't want her any lower and as for height it looks perfect.

and yes Koni is awesome, I live about 45 mins from their NA plant in Hebron Ky. One of my struts came in without the nut because the box was damaged and they were going to let me drive there and pick one up. Very impressed with them and really excited to drive the car, but gotta get the back done and get her aligned first.
 

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Cool....If its not out bad with how it feels I would drive it a day or 2 then align. Not a bunch of miles but give it some settle in. The OEM bumps are gonna have to be cut or it will be hitting more than you think I believe. Like I said you may wanna get some more opinions on that.I am not sure how much drop your springs are-How much? The FRPP ones you got......How much shorter are they than OEM? Curious about this? Yes,The back is simple.You will need to put a wrench on top of shaft on top side but easy to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cool....If its not out bad with how it feels I would drive it a day or 2 then align. Not a bunch of miles but give it some settle in. The OEM bumps are gonna have to be cut or it will be hitting more than you think I believe. Like I said you may wanna get some more opinions on that.I am not sure how much drop your springs are-How much? The FRPP ones you got......How much shorter are they than OEM? Curious about this? Yes,The back is simple.You will need to put a wrench on top of shaft on top side but easy to work with.
I want to do that but I either align it tomorrow or align it thursday after putting 350+ miles on her. I work 12 hour shifts and won't have time else wise.

They are the same length but feel different. almost more forgiving? I just took the stock stock bumpers out and have them sitting with the stock parts. I left the stock rears ones in ATM because I need a Hex key to get them out. Doesn't use a standard wrench bolt. Dunno why they decided to do this. The new ones have the same dang botls but the back ones are designed differently.

Either way I just test drove her on a few curvy roads and a few crappy ones and she didn't bottom out and handled like a beast.

the springs are a 1.7" drop in the front and a 2.4" drop in the back.
 

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Sounds all good......Got 2 questions. 1. Where is your rear bump stops at. As in, when car is just parked, and you look thru wheel , is it align to look like it will srike in the flat part of body or is it more to rear of body almost under the 45 degree looking area. 2. Sitting in resting position like we are talking how much space is between the bump and framework in the rear .
 

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Glad you like them, that makes at least 2 people I've talked into the Koni dampers now so hopefully Koni will start sending me checks any day now lol.

But yea, the strt is way more smooth and firm, I believe this is exactly how the car should have felt from the factory
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sounds all good......Got 2 questions. 1. Where is your rear bump stops at. As in, when car is just parked, and you look thru wheel , is it align to look like it will srike in the flat part of body or is it more to rear of body almost under the 45 degree looking area. 2. Sitting in resting position like we are talking how much space is between the bump and framework in the rear .
glad you asked me to look. I will need to change those out asap. They are barely touching. They are hitting a flat spot but barely touching. Looking at them again they look bigger than the FRPP ones I got. I am going to find my friggin tool today and get them changed. Worst case I will cut the new back ones down anyway even though they seem shorter. Ride didn't seem bad last night, so if this is going to make it even better. :D

Glad you like them, that makes at least 2 people I've talked into the Koni dampers now so hopefully Koni will start sending me checks any day now lol.

But yea, the strt is way more smooth and firm, I believe this is exactly how the car should have felt from the factory
Yessir! Glad you talked me into them. They feel so much better than the stock ones. I really am loving the way they ride.

 

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I love to see pics of you and Grabberblue50 thru the wheel at the bump. Mine is more under the 45 degree framework or about half and half on both sides of course but I made a thread over on "another board" and evrybody said its normal. GeorgenPA said its normal and will strike fine and said pulling springs and shocks and lowering it will prove. I believe it but it puzzled me.I mean wheel is center in wheel and all I think that could cause it is Pinion angle off a tad. I spoke to CHE and he acted like its no biggie also. I get pinion straight soon. If it would stop raining I cut some off my bumps in the rear too. I cut a good 1 to 1-1/2 off my fronts.I could tell by looking at my OEM strut it was hitting alot. I get the rears just as soon as it stops.I take some pics to post to show ya what I am talking about.
I knew you would flip when I told you to look.Especially with a 2.4 drop too!
 

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Where did you get the shocks/struts from? And how much if you dont mind me asking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I love to see pics of you and Grabberblue50 thru the wheel at the bump. Mine is more under the 45 degree framework or about half and half on both sides of course but I made a thread over on "another board" and evrybody said its normal. GeorgenPA said its normal and will strike fine and said pulling springs and shocks and lowering it will prove. I believe it but it puzzled me.I mean wheel is center in wheel and all I think that could cause it is Pinion angle off a tad. I spoke to CHE and he acted like its no biggie also. I get pinion straight soon. If it would stop raining I cut some off my bumps in the rear too. I cut a good 1 to 1-1/2 off my fronts.I could tell by looking at my OEM strut it was hitting alot. I get the rears just as soon as it stops.I take some pics to post to show ya what I am talking about.
I knew you would flip when I told you to look.Especially with a 2.4 drop too!
Glad I saw this as I am going to go jack up each side and take the wheel off and put the new bumpstops that I even cut on right now. I'll take a picture for you. Kinda hard to see them through the wheel but I'll see if I can here in a second when I go do that. I can feel the back hitting after driving today to get a T40 torque end to change the rear bumps but I don't feel the fronts hitting. I may just go ahead and pull it all apart next week and cut them before getting it aligned anyway since I know I should do that. Depends on how she handles for 6 40 min drives the next 3 days. It drives so dang straight I decided to just wait and let it all settle and not align it today.

EDIT: I need to add to this. So they are no longer directly under the flat part and are like you said under the 45 degree angle. That was after driving her kinda rough today for about an hour. I only drove her 10 mins last night. You can see in the second photo that they will for sure hit the 45 degree angle. I am guessing an adjustable UCA is going to fix this by pulling the axle back forward? Not that is really matters. I also need LCA badly. They look straight in the picture because there is no weight on the suspenion. I floored it in first and just spun tires today. Not terrible traction overall but I can see needing them ASAP.



Where did you get the shocks/struts from? And how much if you dont mind me asking?
I got them from AM with 6% off their list price due to our discount from on here. I pretty much buy everything from AM. I think it was like 10$ more than stage3motorspots. I know I could have price matched them but I didn't mind AM getting the few dollars extra as they have done nothing but take care of me no questions asked everytime.

thought I would add this too

 

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Glad I have been some help a little man. As for the rear bumps .....as I was saying. Completely normal. Cutting some off like that and you are fine. I gotta do mine in the rear. Yeah at some point I would do fronts if I were you. It's not gonna mess up nothing but yeah they are hitting more then you will think. No worries. I got relocation brackets and lca's. All I need to do in future is UCA and some sway changes. Guy at CHE told me if I was not using 1-piece driveshaft, or yet, that worrying about the pinion angle at this time was not a major thing at all. I just wanted to be sure I would not wear any rotating part out pre-maturely. So I am not worried or in hurry for UCA. I am not using slicks or tracking right now. No hard launches with grip another words.
I can tell you this.....
If you are lowered you NEED relocation brackets and LCA's. The angle of your LCA's needs to be at min. parallell. What you really want is for the LCA's to be going slightly downhill or more from body to axle. This plants the tire! If not, you will actually get less traction than before you lowered. It's actually lifting the tire!! I have my LCA's in the middle of the 3 optional holes giving me a slightly downhill to axle which plants but street tires are no grip with HP like we make with these cars. Hope this info helps some too man. If I can ever help PM me. BTW car looking good Bruh!
 
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