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RhoudezGt said:
does the trunk rattle with subs on a 2013 gt
Very minimal. You really have to be cranking it.
 

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RhoudezGt said:
Well its gonna be a 12" kicker L7 that's why I was asking.
With that, I'm sure it will. I was more talking about my experiences with the factory sub that comes with the shaker pro system.
 

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Well its gonna be a 12" kicker L7 that's why I was asking.
Not too bad. I have 1 10" JL sub in the back seat. There is not much rattle to speak of.
We're talking about totally different levels here ... OP - there is not a car in the world you can throw that sub in without rattle. That sub is (under)rated for 750W RMS, and will be rattling every single piece of metal on the car at significant volume. The Mustang build quality is shaky at best, and more designed for performance than SQ. If you are concerned about rattles and squeaks then you should be looking at dynamat and extra sound deadening all round the vehicle.

PS - You might want to check out the Mustang Audio & Video forums for further information on this topic, as it is more appropriate to your question.
 

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RhoudezGt said:
Well its gonna be a 12" kicker L7 that's why I was asking.
I have a 12" L7 running 600 watts.
Then 4 new speakers thru out the car each running 80 watts and it rattles a little, u can't hear it to much out side the car but if I blast it u can.
I can't turn it up more than 4 notches with out hurting my ears.
 

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If you put a subwoofer in the trunk of your car, in the traditional box firing back design, it's going to rattle. Dynamat 20 layers thick will not stop it. Do not let anyone tell you otherwise. This is what I do for a living for 22 years lol. Dynamat is great for isolating midrange and midbass vibrations where the metal sort of rings and the mounting surface needs to be deadened. For bass, nothing is going to stop that trunk from rattling, unless you have a box designed to vent into the car and it is vented and sealed into the vent. So yes, an L7 is going to give you rattle and vibration, both inside and out. Although, not too badly since it is a single.
 

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all rattling can be prevented with dynamat. i layered my whole honda pilot. i was running (1) 12" Solo-X, (4) 12" L7's, powered by 2500 watt Kicker Z and 1000 watt Kicker Z amp. There will be flexing but thats normal, but rattling is poor installation and laziness that I can't stand.
 

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In an suv you are mostly correct. In the trunk of a car, the only way to prevent rattle is to force pressure into the cabin of the vehicle.
 

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True enough, probably stop 75% that way.
 

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I just added a 12 with a ported box and i can assure you it rattles and its only being pushed with a 200watt amp... It can easily be fixed with the dynomat because i found the plastic parts that are rattling... The rear view mirror rattles like a son of a bit*h also
 

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Indeed. Once you locate and trap all the plastics, and panels that are rattling, you can kill a huge amount. In some cars almost all of it. I literally dropped the gas tank, foamed it, and re-installed it on my 87 Grand National. At anything under 1/2 a tank of fuel and the tank rattled and rang. The next piece of advice: Do not let people upsell you. Unless you are heat shielding, aluminum backed deadener/asphalt tape is not necessary, and makes little to no difference in sound. Plain old mat. There are several brands, each is as good as the other. Dynamat, just happens to be the most known brand name.
 

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Nah, rear view camera and screen, get rid of the mirror. ;)
 
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