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Ehhh you can get two NEW 12" comp kickers from 120 without a box..

---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------

Is he selling an amp? If not dont its a rip off his box isnt even ported.
 

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Be ready for some good spent $$ for custom boxes that function and fit well. Remember you pay for what you get! Some look good but sound like **** and some dont fit well but sound great i learned first hand
 

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First off, amp output alone is not very useful. I need to know how manny watts per channel and at what load(it will be measured in Ohm, look up the symbol for this if you don't know what your looking for)... Probably best to just get a make and model and I can go off of that. I also need to know the model of these infinity subs. At very least I need the impedance of each sub, the RMS of the sub's, and max/peak RMS as well as there frequency response rating.

As for a box, build a sealed box for sure if your doing it. Most good companies will tell the customer what the recommended air space per sub is, infinity is a good one so this information is out there. I recommend half inch MDF board for building material. You need to wood glue all joints and pre drill all screw holes. Dont forget that you need to get wires in there so drill a small hole for them, pass 4 wires thru the hole with plenty of slack on each side, then seal the hole around the wire with a mix of wood glue and saw dust. Once you do that, get some calking, I always used clear silicon just because it never failed me and dries clear. seal all outer joints with calking, use a card to smooth it out and push it into the joints. Now, go get some boating carpet from lowes or Home Depot. It's not too expensive and hugs the corners nicely. You will need some spray glue and staples to wrap the box in carpet, try to keep the seams on the back and lower edges. Cut the carped from the sub holes and stand back and admire your ALMOST finished box. Take a break from the box now and run all your wires in the car and get power and signal ran, connected, and checked... Ok, here comes the slightly tricky part..outer calking and wood glue should be dry by now so your ready for the last step... Instal 1 sub then quickly lay a thin bead of calking along all inner seams and a nice fat one around that hole the cables come thru. As soon and as fast as you can get the other sub in the box and pump 60HZ thru the subs. This will create pressure in the box forcing calking into any small gaps in the edges.... And there you go, a sealed box that will look professional if you have the skills to do it properly and will be more air tight than any mass manufactured box.

Get me that amp and speaker info and I will help you determine how to wire and set up the amp so it runs safely.

---------- Post added at 09:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Almost forgot. If your useing the stock head unit I Highly recommend a passive crossover. You can use that to splice off the signal from the rear speakers too but I always try to come out of the head unit if at all posable
 

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---------- Post added at 09:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Almost forgot. If your useing the stock head unit I Highly recommend a passive crossover. You can use that to splice off the signal from the rear speakers too but I always try to come out of the head unit if at all posable
I hated using crossover i couldnt control from head unit and it bothered the **** out of me. A couple months went by and i got a new head unit
 

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Its not hard but to actaully make them sound good and have a good functional port isnt very easy lol
+1. Specs for a box said 5 inch port. I ha 2 subs and it said double it. Next thing I know, it says 10 inch port. I did the specs double like stated. Sounded like crap.

---------- Post added at 11:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:47 PM ----------

First off, amp output alone is not very useful. I need to know how manny watts per channel and at what load(it will be measured in Ohm, look up the symbol for this if you don't know what your looking for)... Probably best to just get a make and model and I can go off of that. I also need to know the model of these infinity subs. At very least I need the impedance of each sub, the RMS of the sub's, and max/peak RMS as well as there frequency response rating.

As for a box, build a sealed box for sure if your doing it. Most good companies will tell the customer what the recommended air space per sub is, infinity is a good one so this information is out there. I recommend half inch MDF board for building material. You need to wood glue all joints and pre drill all screw holes. Dont forget that you need to get wires in there so drill a small hole for them, pass 4 wires thru the hole with plenty of slack on each side, then seal the hole around the wire with a mix of wood glue and saw dust. Once you do that, get some calking, I always used clear silicon just because it never failed me and dries clear. seal all outer joints with calking, use a card to smooth it out and push it into the joints. Now, go get some boating carpet from lowes or Home Depot. It's not too expensive and hugs the corners nicely. You will need some spray glue and staples to wrap the box in carpet, try to keep the seams on the back and lower edges. Cut the carped from the sub holes and stand back and admire your ALMOST finished box. Take a break from the box now and run all your wires in the car and get power and signal ran, connected, and checked... Ok, here comes the slightly tricky part..outer calking and wood glue should be dry by now so your ready for the last step... Instal 1 sub then quickly lay a thin bead of calking along all inner seams and a nice fat one around that hole the cables come thru. As soon and as fast as you can get the other sub in the box and pump 60HZ thru the subs. This will create pressure in the box forcing calking into any small gaps in the edges.... And there you go, a sealed box that will look professional if you have the skills to do it properly and will be more air tight than any mass manufactured box.

Get me that amp and speaker info and I will help you determine how to wire and set up the amp so it runs safely.

---------- Post added at 09:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

Almost forgot. If your useing the stock head unit I Highly recommend a passive crossover. You can use that to splice off the signal from the rear speakers too but I always try to come out of the head unit if at all posable
One thing about your box building. Why not a quick connect and caulk round it? That's what I did. Hella easy and 10x better than "saw dust" just my .02
 

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I hated using crossover i couldnt control from head unit and it bothered the **** out of me. A couple months went by and i got a new head unit
I hope your ready for a crash corse in speakers and acoustics...here we go...

Crossovers are really not to be messed with as you can easily damage a speaker by feeding it frequencies it can not reproduce effectively. For a sub, it's high freq's that will burn it up, for door speakers it's the low frequencies...

Every speaker has something called an acoustical crossover point. That is the point at which the speaker begins to no longer be able to produce a frequency efficiently. Most manufacturers add 10HZ on the high end and take 10HZ from the low end when they put the spec for the frequency response in a speakers manual. That means that they are basically rolling the dice for you to make there speaker look better on paper. You should never set that crossover point higher than what is said in the manual, in fact, I would recommend setting it 10HZ lower. Then please, leave it alone or you will eventually blow the sub. High end subs are made better and can take the abuse better but eventually it will die and you will cry.

This is a very very very common mistake. I see "pro" audio shops screw this up all the time and kinda just grin. Then I pull out my SMAART rig and they pay a pretty penny for me to teach an in depth class on tuning a cabinet properly...



+1. Specs for a box said 5 inch port. I ha 2 subs and it said double it. Next thing I know, it says 10 inch port. I did the specs double like stated. Sounded like crap.
Ports are more than just a hole. It has to actually go into the box also. The depth of the port has as much importance as the diameter or the port... It takes some math to figure out how to do it properly and even then it is not easy. Building a properly ported box that is specifically suited for a certain sub is a serious undertaking... I will post some pics of the box I build for 2 Alpine R-10's. it took almost 3 weeks (working on and off) to figure it all out, draw up plans, and build the box. I will say that it ended up being one of, if not the nicest boxes I ever built and sounded absolutely amazing. It shook off my rear view mirror in 5 min... That's after years of having 15's and 12's that never came close to doing that. the clarity and depth of bass that this system produces was just truly mind blowing but the work it took was ridiculous. I can't say I would do it again.

---------- Post added at 11:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11



One thing about your box building. Why not a quick connect and caulk round it? That's what I did. Hella easy and 10x better than "saw dust" just my .02
I absolutely agree, I was just trying to keep it as cheap and easy as I could. I always used the quick connects also but some people don't know what they are or where to get them. It also means you need a whole saw to cut that hole because most jig saw blades will snap trying to make a circle cut with a small radius... But yes, I agree that the cleaner look is a quick connect.

---------- Post added at 08:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------

I have no idea why my responses came up as a quote inside a quote but if you look carefully I did my best to answer 3 different posts. Sorry for any confusion
 
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