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I guess I don't see the point then.


Bullitts are better than Bullets
Stronger overall rear end, heavy duty carrier, ford racing diff, 3.55 or 3.73 gears, traction lok carbon clutch packs and stronger axles. It saves a lot of labor and cost to swap the whole rear axle rather than piece together the stock one.

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I thought a GT/Boss rearend and V6 were interchangable... why would the V6 need a cobra flange and a GT not need it?
 

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This is a Gt500/ Cobra rear end, not the one on the GT or boss. As to why the 5.0 doesn't and the V6 doesnt, I can't find a good answer. My best guess is due to the shape of the u joint on the V6 versus the 5.0.

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Not tryin to threadjack but what would be a 26" tire on a 17" rim? And what ratio would that make the rear end act like
I got her a set of 245 40 18 nitto NT01s to put on my factory 18 x 8 rims, which works out to about 25.8" for now. Eventually she'll end up on a pair of 18 x 10s like me (just couldnt afford 8 rims and tires at once) with a 295 35 18 which is about 26.1.

11+ V6 already has an 8.8,


Bullitts are better than Bullets
V6 also comes with a 2.73, i want a 3.55 for her. As mentioned above, the 2.73s are WAY too long for a road course ... 50 mph in 3rd is under 3k rpms.

I thought a GT/Boss rearend and V6 were interchangable... why would the V6 need a cobra flange and a GT not need it?

The physical rear end is the same, my concern is the pinion flange to bolt the V6 driveshaft to the gt500 rear end.
 

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I have a very "STUPID" question ?????????????????????

Why not just change the ratio in the 8.8 rear that is already in the 2014 Mustang ?

A GT 500 uses the same rear. 31 spline 8.8
Are you getting a complete "FORD RACING" Rear axle assembly???

If so, I can see why your changing the whole package.
Ronnie
 

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It's the full ford racing rear end if I'm not mistaken. Diff, axles, gears, carbon clutch packs, etc.

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I see the point of changing it now

Just be certain your getting a genuine "FORD RACING" assembly. Unless your buying it new, the seller might not be selling you the real thing and just a GT assembly.
Why is the person selling it anyway?
Ronnie
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I really dont care. Again, it was FREE, and it sure as hell cant be anything worse than a stock V6 rear end. We are only interested in the 3.55 gears, anything else is just a bonus.

I have no idea why the seller sold it, but i'm not the one who bought it, see post #11.
 

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Lucky gf. Gets free gears, free Ford Racing rear axle, and free labor. And lucky you, for having a gf who's into Mustangs!

Let us know what you discover about the flange when doing the install.

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Lucky gf. Gets free gears, free Ford Racing rear axle, and free labor. And lucky you, for having a gf who's into Mustangs!

Let us know what you discover about the flange when doing the install.

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Hah, its bittersweet having a girl that is into track driving as well.

on the one hand she understands why i want badass tires, and is ok spending the money. On the other, she wants them too! haha Its expensive tracking 2 mustangs, but i suppose there are worse things in this world. Shes buying us a set of Corbeau seats for our next track day, i think i can install an axle haha.

To be honest, its kind of fun working on her V6. Its close enough to my 5.0 to be familiar, but different enough to be exciting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
So, we got the rears swapped today, and below i'll make sort of a short walkthrough / step by step and try to list the steps needed.


First, I decided it would be best to remove the driveshaft to prevent it from binding as the axle starting shifting from removing the various pieces. There's 4 bolts on the shaft, 12 pt 12mm socket and they come right off. I just zip tied it against the exhaust to keep it from drooping down, but it wasn't really in the way.



Next, I figured the sway bar was in the way of a lot of the LCA / PHB bolts so it would be best to take that off next. Took the 4 nuts off the umm axle, strut, piece.



And next you take the 2 holding the end link off the body. Easy enough.



So, I got the LCA bolt about this far out before I realized the axle was binding it quite a bit



So I figured it was time to bust out the handy dandy trans jack and put it to work.

This baby pivots on an X and Y axis, making it extremely versatile and useful in situations like this.


Up next was removing the rear calipers / rotors. The Difficult part was that everything I could have possibly zip tied them to was being removed... so I just assembled whatever boxes I had laying around to get the job done.



Important safety tip, don't forget this hal effect sensor when taking everything out. I believe its the traction control since its measuring off the hub, but whatever, take it off.



So, lastly was the 2 bolts holding the struts on the axle, and the PHB, but I needed my GF to come out for a spare set of hands and didn't get pictures of the process. This, ladies in gentlemen though, is how you get an axle out. Granted we have done a few sets of LCAs / brackets / PHB now, so we were used to the process. Having an impact also makes the process go by faster, but it probably wasn't even 1 -1.5 hours before we had it out.





Important safety tip. The axle is heavy as hell, i'd guess about 200 lbs or more. It is very important to have a confident hold on it when moving it about.




Since my GF and I road race our cars, I decided i'd address a few things while we had it all apart, namely:
Heat tape between the gas tank and exhaust



And a finned Diff cover (as well as a much needed fluid change)



So, this flange was needed for the swap:
Ford Racing Mustang Pinion Flange M-4851-B (03-04 Cobra) - Free Shipping
However, i'd swear it was identical to the one that was on her factory V6 driveshaft. It was however, different from the GT500 unit, so it did need to be replaced.


Another thing. The V6 sway bar (and i'm assuming GT since they're the same design) WILL NOT fit on the GT500 axle, the flanges are different.


V6 / GT



GT500



To compensate for this we just plan on ordering a Whiteline sway bar, which I believe is a quality piece anyways, so its hardly a deal breaker.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/whiteline-hd-adj-rearswaybar-0513.html
Aside from that, its a very basic and straight forward swap, assuming you have the right tools.
 

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So, we got the rears swapped today, and below i'll make sort of a short walkthrough / step by step and try to list the steps needed.


First, I decided it would be best to remove the driveshaft first to prevent it from binding as the axle starting shifting from removing the various pieces. There's 4 bolts on the shaft, 12 pt 12mm socket and they come right off. I just zip tied it against the exhaust to keep it from drooping down, but it wasn't really in the way.



Next, I figured the sway bar was in the way of a lot of the LCA / PHB bolts so it would be best to take that off next. Took the 4 nuts off the umm axle, strut, piece.



And next you take the 2 holding the end link off the body. Easy enough.



So, I got the LCA bolt about this far out before I realized the axle was binding it quite a bit



So I figured it was time to bust out the handy dandy trans jack and put it to work.

This baby pivots on an X and Y axis, making it extremely versatile and useful in situations like this.


Up next was removing the rear calipers / rotors. The Difficult part was that everything I could have possibly zip tied them to was behind removed... so I just assembled whatever boxes I had laying around to get the job done.



Important safety tip, don't forget this hal effect sensor when taking everything out. I believe its the traction control since its measuring off the hub, but whatever, take it off.



So, lastly was the 2 bolts holding the struts on the axle, and the PHB, but I needed my GF to come out for a spare set of hands and didn't get pictures of the process. This, ladies in gentlemen though, is how you get an axle out. Granted we have done a few sets of LCAs / brackets / PHB now, so we were used to the process. Having an impact also makes the process go by faster, but it probably wasn't even 1 -1.5 hours before we had it out.





Important safety tip. The axle is heavy as hell, i'd guess about 200 lbs or more. It is very important to have a confident hold on it when moving it about.




Since my GF and I road race our cars, I decided i'd address a few things while we had it all apart, namely:
Heat tape between the gas tank and exhaust



And a finned Diff cover (as well as a much needed fluid change)



So, this flange was needed for the swap:
Ford Racing Mustang Pinion Flange M-4851-B (03-04 Cobra) - Free Shipping
However, i'd swear it was identical to the one that was on her factory V6 driveshaft. It was however, different from the GT500 unit, so it did need to be replaced.


Another thing. The V6 sway bar (and i'm assuming GT since they're the same design) WILL NOT fit on the GT500 axle, the flanges are different. Aside from that, its a very basic and straight forward swap, assuming you have the right tools.
Nice Write up!
And road racing, really cool!
I'll have to pm you about that later..
It's the kind of racing I want to set up my car for (although as of now all I can do is straight line... and because of traction issues, I can't even do that right)

The real... boss 227
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
For sure man. We haven't been doing it that long, but i'd be more than happy to share what I know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So i just wanted to update this thread after spending some time working on the car this weekend.

I went to every Ford Dealership i could looking for those GT500 specific clips, called my Ford Racing guy, and everyone just kept telling me there is only 1 part number for the sway bar clips. Every single dealership insisted there is only 1 part number and the clips they're trying to sell me will work ... i got tired of explaining they wouldn't.

Luckily, i just happened to post up in a mustang group and someone spotted that the axle had simply been cut to accept a 15 x 10 drag racing rim and all i would need is a set of sway bar relocation brackets :facepalm:. Explains why i couldn't find a separate part number though.

So, that being said, the sway bar will bolt right up to a GT500 axle, we just happened to end up with one that had been modified, and installed these sway bar relocation brackets.
SRK001 - Sway Bar Relocation Kit | 2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Sway Bar Kits | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis
That being said ... it is not a part i am crazy about. The fix seems kind of half ass, and they also cause the sway bar to rub our BMR LCA relocation brackets. Now, i realize having relocated both the LCAs and sway bar likely leaves a lot of room for things to not fit, and both my GF and i run full BMR suspension... just this one piece in particular i am not thrilled with, but it is getting the job done for now. I imagine for your drag racer and daily driver it will more than serve its purpose, i just don't know how i feel about it for road course and corner carving.
 

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what all did you need for the swap?
It depends upon the rear end you get, but basically the rear end from a 2005-10 GT or GT500 and the cobra pinion flange so your drive shaft will mount up. Swapping the flange can be an issue, if you don't do the preload correctly you can damage the rear end. When I did it, I had a shop do the swap because I wasn't comfortable getting the inch lb setting correct.

If you get a rear end from any 2011-14 Mustang, depending upon the options that the donor car had you may not need the flange swap. Some of the 2001-14 have the correct flange already. If you get one from those years, check the flange before you swap it.
 

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It depends upon the rear end you get, but basically the rear end from a 2005-10 GT or GT500 and the cobra pinion flange so your drive shaft will mount up. Swapping the flange can be an issue, if you don't do the preload correctly you can damage the rear end. When I did it, I had a shop do the swap because I wasn't comfortable getting the inch lb setting correct.

If you get a rear end from any 2011-14 Mustang, depending upon the options that the donor car had you may not need the flange swap. Some of the 2001-14 have the correct flange already. If you get one from those years, check the flange before you swap it.
So I have a 2014 v6 and the rear end is from a 2013 Shelby
 

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You need to swap the flange based upon the year of the rear end. BUT, check it before swapping just in case. I used to broker rear ends (wish my source still was around) and when the 2011 came out we were surprised when one of the first we shipped had the correct flange on it. It seemed to be dependent first on the year of the rear end.
 
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