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Hey guys, my 2013 5.0 is making an inconsistent ticking noise when it gets warm and consistent ticking noise under load from 1.5k to 2.3k. I've taken it to ford and they said they had no idea. Anyone having this issue or any idea on what it is? Car has 7000 miles on it 6mt.
 

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its a ford. could be many things, but for the most part unless excessively loud its most likely fine!... have you ever popped the hood on another mustang and heard it run.. on most you will hear the same tick... used to drive me insane
 

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It's pretty loud especially when driving next to a wall or another car. I took it to a couple dealerships and they had no idea. Said they would put in a trouble ticket to ford. Been two months still haven't heard back. Also drove another 5.0 there and no ticking.

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I am having the exact same issue right now with my '12 premium MT. I have 35*** miles on it and I took her in for an oil change last Weds. Every since then I have had a very inconsistent but noticeable ticking coming from under the hood. It is scheduled to hot to the Ford dealer July 3. I really want to know what the hell it is though. I have only put 2k miles on this thing.
 

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Feazlenut20 check this out^. Mine is going in for the 3rd time. I found this, it has alot of useful info!

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Ha! I just called my Ford service tech and he said he has been doing service/warranty for 15yrs and has never heard of anything like this. He told me it is completely bogus. I want a number to call a Ford specialist and get this figured out. They are scheduled to tear my car apart next Thursday and I don't want them to if they do not have to. Help?!
 

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Ha! I just called my Ford service tech and he said he has been doing service/warranty for 15yrs and has never heard of anything like this. He told me it is completely bogus. I want a number to call a Ford specialist and get this figured out. They are scheduled to tear my car apart next Thursday and I don't want them to if they do not have to. Help?!
I've read this graphite additive solution on multiple sites. Really hopefully its that cuz if its not then I also read that it might be a bad lifter.
 

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Had a 05 Ford focus zx4 or whatever there called and it was a grand or two avay from being toataled on two occasions. It had 135,000 miles on it when I sold it and the motor had a extremely loud ticking after the first accident. I honestly think the valves needed to be adjusted but it ran like a champ. You can't kill a Ford. I wouldent worry about it.
 

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Had a 05 Ford focus zx4 or whatever there called and it was a grand or two avay from being toataled on two occasions. It had 135,000 miles on it when I sold it and the motor had a extremely loud ticking after the first accident. I honestly think the valves needed to be adjusted but it ran like a champ. You can't kill a Ford. I wouldent worry about it.
Nope you can't kill a Ford you just find it on the road dead lmao
 

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Got this from wikipedia

Graphite[edit]
Graphite is structurally composed of planes of polycyclic carbon atoms that are hexagonal in orientation. The distance of carbon atoms between planes is longer and therefore the bonding is weaker.

Graphite is best suited for lubrication in air. Water vapor is a necessary component for graphite lubrication. The adsorption of water reduces the bonding energy between the hexagonal planes of the graphite to a lower level than the adhesion energy between a substrate and the graphite. Because water vapor is a requirement for lubrication, graphite is not effective in vacuum.[2] Because it is electrically conductive, graphite can promote galvanic corrosion. In an oxidative atmosphere graphite is effective at high temperatures up to 450°C continuously and can withstand much higher temperature peaks.

Graphite is characterized by two main groups: natural and synthetic. Synthetic graphite is a high temperature sintered product and is characterized by its high purity of carbon (99.5−99.9%). The primary grade synthetic graphite can approach the good lubricity of quality natural graphite.

Natural graphite is derived from mining. The quality of natural graphite varies as a result of the ore quality and post mining processing of the ore. The end product is graphite with a content of carbon (high grade graphite 96−98% carbon), sulfur, SiO2 and ash. The higher the carbon content and the degree of graphitization (high crystalline) the better the lubricity and resistance to oxidation.


So graphite can handle the heat of the engine and is mostly carbon which is what our engine builds up anyways. Kind of worries when it said it cant work on a vacuum but its not really being used in the cylinders or the intake as much as everything else. Pretty cool engineering to me.
 

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Make a search on google "ignitor tick" and you'll find thousands of other people with the same problem in their 5.0s..

I bought mine last year new, when I did it's first oil change at around 2500k miles it started. I took it in to the dealer and they acknowledge that there was a ticking but supposedly ford told them to put it back together and that I could drive it while they investigated the situation.

Lol its been a year later and I never heard anything from them, now I have 22k miles on the car. I noticed that it only happens after an oil change but after 200-300 miles of driving it goes away so I just left it, I just did an oil change last week and once again it was back. I drove a couple of hundred miles and once again it's gone. Mine isn't too loud, I mean you can hear it but you have to pay attention to it otherwise you won't notice it. At drive trus you can hear it but like I said once I drive it for a while with the new oil in it the ticking goes away. I don't worry about it anymore, my car doesn't have any problems and it has actually ran pretty strong compared to other 5.0s and like I said now I know that once I change the oil the ticking will go away after driving for a bit.
 
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