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Discussion Starter #1
So after speaking with a Maximum Motorsports representative today I believe that one of my problems has been deciphered. At around 55-60mph my car gets a good shake right through the steering wheel. He told me to check out the Tie rods by jacking up the car and holding each wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. He said if there was any play in the turning of the tire that he is almost 100% sure that this is the problem. My car has 108K miles on it and is my daily driver. I was wondering if this is an easy fix or should I take the car to the pros? Also I was wondering what FORD charges for new tie rods. I know enough that there are inner and outer tie rods, however I will most likely just find the busted one and replace that one to save some moeny. I also am going to most likely be purchasing a set of front control arm urethane bushings as the representative really said this would make a difference with the high millage of my car. Wondering if anyone went with their urethane bushings and if they felt a difference or not. Either way that mod will be getting done.
 

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I would change one side at a time (inner & outer), they should be cheap enough at Napa or who ever you use. Just measure the length form the sleeve in the middle to some point on the rod end and go back with the same over all length as the one you removed. That will be close enough then you will have to get the toe set if you can’t do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is it really necessary to change the inner? Seems like more work for an ameteur. I youtube researched and the installation for the outers look pretty easy. Looking into MOOG for my part or OE, but we'll see. Thanks for you input, Cobra/GT and SPEC. This weekend I will jack up the car and see if there is some play in the tie rod ends for sure. Being on a budget sucks...haha
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Ok so actually I took a break from studying and jacked up the car one side at a time. Now I was not sure If I had to jack the entire front end off to see if there was play or not so let me know people??? I took the drivers side rim off and shook the rotor to the righ and then the passenger side off and did the same thing and nothing. There wasn't any play in the tie rod area behind the brakes so now I'm back at square one for finding the damn culprit causing the vibrations when I'm moving at about 55-60mph. However I did notice that the wear on my tires was getting bad only on the inside. My car does not pull normally to either side, however sometimes when I switch lanes on the highway doing 70-80 MPH it wants to drift back into the lane that I was originally in??? Any advice is appreciated.
 

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if the tires are wearing on the inside get an alignment, and if its a vibration in a given mph range its probably the balancing of the wheels
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got an allignment and the car feels a little better, however due to one of the tires having a nasty lip on it (most likely the cause of the vibrations in the steering wheel) I could not have the rotation done at this time because the front tires would go on the drive wheels and most likely explode when I mash the gas at a light! So for the time being I'll be looking for some new tires for the Front and then have the allignment redone as well as the rotations once the new tires are mounted and balanced. Thanks for all your help guys.
 

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After sliding into a curb and smashing a wheel and bending my tie rod a smidge I get vibrations at the same speeds. My camber is off as well so Im wondering if this is typical of the mustang. I have directional summer tires in the rear so I cant rotate either. New tires wont help unless the alignment has been fixed first, I tried that already and it actually got more squirly on me because it was riding on more of a lip than before. Good luck!
 

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by the way my wheels dont have any play either, so dont rule out the tie rods entirely just because theres no play, it could have been bent prior to your purchase. I know several people at least in this area who have slid into or jumped curbs from their mustangs not wanting to turn or stop through a corner in poor weather. I was doing 15mph when I hit the curb the car just refused to stop on the damp road.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea thanks, but I'm the originally owner and no curb jumping here. I def think its the tires as the passenger was destroyed, however I got a good look at the suspension and forgot that my convertible had a front sway bar and sub-frame connectors stock from the factory...probably not the best, but hey I like it.
 

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I apologize if i missed this as i was skimming. Vibration in steearing wheel at high speeds(usually 50+) is almost always due to the balance of tires being off or bad tires. Not sure what u mean by a "lip" on one of the tires, but if its not bulging out the sidewall and the rubber isn't seperating, the tire will not "explode" if u put it on the back. Would recomend at the very minimum getting a rotate and balance. If u take it into a local tire shop this shouldn't cost more that 30-50 depending on where u are. And they can double check your tie rods,ball joints, and other suspension parts while they are at it (usually at no charge). The alignment itself won't cause a vibration unless it has worn the tires uneven(then the tires cause vibration). Hope this helps a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took it in last thursday and the tires were coming apart on the inside so we decided not to rotate to rear. I got my new Falken 452's today and they should be on tomorrow. They had a nasty lip meaning that the tires were wearing bad on the insides and actually had a lip like a deep dish rim. don't know how else to explain but they were in need of replacing. we'll see how the car feels after tomorrow.
thanks.
 

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I apologize if i missed this as i was skimming. Vibration in steearing wheel at high speeds(usually 50+) is almost always due to the balance of tires being off or bad tires. Not sure what u mean by a "lip" on one of the tires, but if its not bulging out the sidewall and the rubber isn't seperating, the tire will not "explode" if u put it on the back. Would recomend at the very minimum getting a rotate and balance. If u take it into a local tire shop this shouldn't cost more that 30-50 depending on where u are. And they can double check your tie rods,ball joints, and other suspension parts while they are at it (usually at no charge). The alignment itself won't cause a vibration unless it has worn the tires uneven(then the tires cause vibration). Hope this helps a little.
Sounds like great advise !!! But I believe you need to give me the 18 and you can have my 17 :wtf:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got the falken 452's put on today and holy ****. It's like night and day the difference. On a side not I'd like to say that the Falkens are the smoothest riding tires I've ever owned.

I think I'll hang on the the 18's, but if you want to purchase an additional pair of falken's for me I'd appreciate it uncle herb.
 
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