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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, Stangers. Well, finally going to get started my next project. Getting my 12 GT to the point where I can focus on something else. Not to mention the wife's been asking me to get my one owner, me, 91Gt back on the road. I purchase it new in the summer of 1990. It was a grocery getter for the first few years of its life. Then a daily driver beast for me for another few. It had a fiberglass Daytona Jr. front end. In the late 90's it was restricted to weekend track duty with a stock lower end, Edelbrock heads, intake, Accufab Tbody, 1.7 RRs and a little bit of nitrous. Its a manual car with HP Mototrsports Mega bite rear LCAs, 373s off road exhaust, BBK CAI, FMS lowering springs. In about 2002 my son was getting close to driving so I pulled it all apart to return it to stock. Well, no initiative from him and I said forget it. So it sat since then.

I now have a ton of parts I've collected over the years waiting for this moment. The majority of the interior has faded so I've order all new interior pieces all the weather stripping. In addition to fading some mice have called it home for who knows how long.

I have a 347 with ported and polished World Parts Windsor Jr. heads. Just got my Cobra intake back from TMoss with a major port and weld job.

Look for photos soon in "My Garage"
 

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SWEET! A 91GT hatch was my first ever Mustang. Ratty as hell, blue with pitted chrome ponys and who knows what the previous owner did to it but it was a blast for a 19 yr old.


Looking forward to seeing this. I actually didn't think Tmoss was still in the game but I guess so. Those Windsor Srs plus the Tmoss Cobra plus a good cam (custom from FTI or Buddy hopefully) on a 347 will make a lot of power. Although at 240-250cfm isn't that lower intake a little restrictive for those ported heads? What do they flow?


But yeah, pics pics pics pics pics!


Also HIGHLY recommend TMI leather and foams for seats if you want it to look factory new. If not then swap in some Cobras or mint S197s or Corbeaus.


LMR sells pretty much everything to redo the stripping and stuff and even interior panels I think. I would love to see you go straight black interior with a badass metallic color on the outside but that's just what I would do, not sure what you have in mind.
 

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In for some car pron.

Yeah that lower is a bit on the small side as well as the heads but I for one know sometimes you gotta work with what you got. A nice custom cam will tie it all together for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
SWEET! A 91GT hatch was my first ever Mustang. Ratty as hell, blue with pitted chrome ponys and who knows what the previous owner did to it but it was a blast for a 19 yr old.


Looking forward to seeing this. I actually didn't think Tmoss was still in the game but I guess so. Those Windsor Srs plus the Tmoss Cobra plus a good cam (custom from FTI or Buddy hopefully) on a 347 will make a lot of power. Although at 240-250cfm isn't that lower intake a little restrictive for those ported heads? What do they flow?


But yeah, pics pics pics pics pics!


Also HIGHLY recommend TMI leather and foams for seats if you want it to look factory new. If not then swap in some Cobras or mint S197s or Corbeaus.


LMR sells pretty much everything to redo the stripping and stuff and even interior panels I think. I would love to see you go straight black interior with a badass metallic color on the outside but that's just what I would do, not sure what you have in mind.

Yup Tmoss is still in action. He did say that my manifold would need some extensive work including welding to get it to match up with my heads. I'm really looking to keep the look of this thing true to the early 90's era. For what I have into the manifold and port work I could have gotten just about any other aftermarket manifold but I really like the looks and authenticity of the Cobra manifold. A custom grind cam is definitely in my future but since I'm in Ca. so I'm stuck with passing the sniffer test around here.

Fortunately my front seats are in pretty good shape but I didn't think about S197 seat swap. I have just swapped out the seats in my 12 GT to 2 tone blue and black Roush seats. So I do have a black and gray leather set available for a swap.
 

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Swap those 12GT seasts in! Also for Cali emissiosns just let FTI know you need to pass the sniffer. Not like they can pull the cam out and check it.

And let Tmoss do what Tmoss is going to do. If it takes extensive welding etc... then do it.

Pics!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Swap those 12GT seasts in! Also for Cali emissiosns just let FTI know you need to pass the sniffer. Not like they can pull the cam out and check it.

And let Tmoss do what Tmoss is going to do. If it takes extensive welding etc... then do it.

Pics!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got the interior stripped out. Goona do the torque boxes, upper and lower. Also going to weld in the sub-frame connectors. I have a 2 post lift and as we know its not recommended to use a 2 post lift. I was thinking that if I used 4 pole jacks at front control arms and to on the rear axle and just lowered the car down on to them that it would have the same affect as putting it on a drive on lift. That should work, right? Or am I missing something?
 

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As long as the floor is reasonably level, I don't see why that wouldn't work.
I would leave the lift just slightly below the chassis as a safety measure.
 

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As long as the car is level and the suspension is fully loaded you'll be fine. Keep the 4 post lift under it for safety as was mentioned.

PICS!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I figured it would probably work. Doing the research on the installing the S197 seats. Started getting the interior parts. So far the only parts that haven't matched the original titanium color is the door speaker grilles but the original ones are in perfect condition so Ill just swap them. The 4 plastic seat belt covers are an issue. They don't match each other. I knew there would some issues with matching with repop parts.
 

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Nice nice! Love white Mustangs and props on the LX tails too lol. Looks damn clean. I mean... its not a black interior but it can't be perfect I guess. :p

Looks like you are making good progress. Better than me that took the military telling me I'm moving out of the country to make me get off my *** and finish mine lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Truth be told this car has been in some form of disassembly since 2006. But a couple Harleys and a few Mustangs have demanded my attention and fun budget. I just bought 2016 CVO Street Glide in pearl white. Totally awesome color. I'm considering painting the mustang to match.
 

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If you DON'T paint that car to match then I think someone should have you evaluated lmao. That bike is SWEET!! Man... life goals lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
If you DON'T paint that car to match then I think someone should have you evaluated lmao. That bike is SWEET!! Man... life goals lol.
Got the upper and lower torque boxes in. Next I'll get the sub frame connectors and roll cage.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
looking for some feedback.....
I currently have HP Motorsports Mega Bite Jr LCAs and their boxed uppers as well. Now I get from what I've read that they are awesome for straight line traction but may not be the greats handling LCA, I've got nothing bad to say about them as I do more drag racing than anything else and on the street they seem to handle adequately for my needs. My question is... should I stick with the boxed uppers or switch to an adjustable upper?
 

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TBTH the 4 link will never be good handling. You need to convert to a 3 link, a Steeda 5 link or an IRS if you want to handle... boxed uppers are very bad for the street because of snap oversteer and they beat the **** out of the torque boxes, even reinforced ones. Max Motorsports actually has a pretty good read on why they recommend only the flimsy stock uppers because they keep the suspension from binding up.

I swapped to an IRS and I will never... NEVER go back to a stick axle for a street car. For a drag car it'd be a different story but there are some big power IRS cars out there.

To answer your question, I'd stick with those lowers and then go back to new stock uppers for a steet car or at least get some heim joint ones if you are determined to stay aftermarket. Or get a panhard bar and delete one of the UCAs for a "poor man's 3 link".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Than you. Good feedback. I've been considering a MM torque arm with pan hard bar kit. I've already purchased Stifflers sub frame connectors. I was wondering if they will work with the MM kit. Also, should I ditch the mega bite Jr LCAs or can I save a few hundred dollars and use them with the kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, got the 4 point S&W cage in. Started out as a 10 point cage for a different stang I was gonna build but just went with 4 point for this one. I ditched the HP Motorsports Mega Bite Jr lower and upper control arms. Got the MM torque arm, PHB and JM weight jacker LCAs. I also have Tokico Illumina shocks and struts. I currently have Ford Motorsports springs. Don't remember which ones. Im looking to pick out front and rear sway bars and appropriate springs. Just not sure which kit to get...MM or Eibach. Keeping in mind it will be driven on the street with an occasional trip to the drag strip. I'm considering a tubular K member as well.
 

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Damn nice. Post pics when you get a minute.
 
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