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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so as some might know I have these car for almost 3 months,
the girl I bought it from did nothing to it, I have replaced all the shocks, U joints, I still have to replace the controls arms, my question is these, since I replaced the u joints, shocks, and lower ball joints the car handles better, I still have vibration, the whole car vibrates at stop, engine running and on drive, if I switch the car to neutral the vibration stops, if I put it in drive it starts vibrating, not a lot but enough to bother me, I was thinking maybe the drive shaft is bend?
or could it be the transmission mount?
The thing I notice is that on freeway driving if put the car on neutral at high speed the vibration still there, it does not goes away.
but if I do it on city driving a slow speeds, the vibration goes away until I put it on drive again.
I have aluminum wheels 14" installed just these past sunday and they balance them all 4.
If the control arms are in need of replacement and there is a lot of play on them, will these cause the car to vibrate or slightly shakes and it feels like vibration?
Ok any help will be appreciated.
I'm buying a new transmission mount anyways to see if that helps, engine mounts are new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No power brakes, drum brakes, car is stock.
Another thing I notice is that the vibration increases at high speeds, at freeway driving once I go over 70 mph the vibration gets worse, but over 80 mph it seems to slow down, vibration is not as loud.
 

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No power brakes, drum brakes, car is stock.
Another thing I notice is that the vibration increases at high speeds, at freeway driving once I go over 70 mph the vibration gets worse, but over 80 mph it seems to slow down, vibration is not as loud.
Sounds like you have two problems one is a tire out of balance seems like. The other when stopped what is the engine RPM? How many miles on it? I would first look at engine mounts then tranny mount after I got the engine tuned up. Do you have a good timing light and dwell meter if not then you need them no matter who says they can tune it by ear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when I first bought the car, everything rattle and vibrate.
I have slowly getting it back to normal or at least I'm trying.
I had check the timing and it was good, replaced all sparkplugs and wires, rotor, the whole thing that comes with replacing the distributor items etc..
Aluminun wheels where installed last sunday and balance by a tire shop I know for years.
Engine mounts look brand new, transmission mount looks old, I have been messing with the carburator for the last few weeks, I have an adjustment screw that I believe is for the idle? if I closed the car will start shacking to the point that it will stop running if I close it all the way, so I have been trying to adjusted to a point where it runs good.
I think rpm's are a bit too high but if I lowered them more the car stars acting up.
I don't see any other adjustment screw on these carburator,
I will double checked the timing today and go under to remove the drive shaft and run the car with out it to find out if there is any improvement or what the hell is going on.
abut the miles on the engine I can't tell, but the time we did the head gasket it looked like it had been rebuilt recently, everything was iin excellent shape.

---------- Post added at 09:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 AM ----------

and just for the record, the car is running way better than when I bought it, the car vibrated so much, it sounded it like a old diesel truck, now it sounds more like an old mustang, and the car runs smooth at a stop with the transmission in neutral, if I put it in drive at a stop it starts vibrating.
 

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Sounds like one thing is the carb. If the rpm's are too high and lowering them kills the engine, then the running in neutral at a stop with no vibration makes sense, it can't handle much of a load. But it also sounds like you may have tranny issue. Flywheel could be warped, maybe. Also don't count out the engine mounts, people use the oil pan to lift the front of the car and end up tearing the rubber on the mounts, they look ok until you jack up the car see they're torn.
 

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Your biggest problem is the design of the head. These engines are notorious for the vibration at idle. I've been in the habit of putting all of mine in neutral at a stop since 1979. This was a known issue when the cars were new! You should run it on the rich side at idle. Also, make sure your distributor and carb match. The distributor and carb work together. Go to this website and read all about it:
http://www.classicinlines.com/home.asp
Your high speed vibration does sound like tire balance. Have the shop check "road force variation" checks for a tire that is not round. It could also be in the driveline. Did you say which trans you have? If auto, make sure the torque converter is properly torqued to the flex plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quick question, if the drive shaft was bend, even slightly would the car vibrate at stop on drive and will it stop vibrating till it reaches 65 mph and stops again at 75 mph?
Or would it continue vibrating not matter what speeds?
I ask because when I bought the car the u joints wherein really bad shape, almost ready to break off, I drove the car like that for a few weeks until I found out how bad they were.
Could that have bend the drive shaft?
 

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Your drive saft doesnt spin while youre stoped. Maybe wore out a baring in your rear end but i dont that would happen. my car does the same thing if i bump up the idle it goes away
 

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To the first part, no, the driveshaft is not turning when you are stopped so could not cause vibration then. To the second part, I guess damage could be done to a yoke if the u-joints were bad, but I have not experienced it. There is a nifty way to check the frequency of a vibration using a small engine tach. Then if you know engine RPM, you can narrow the search to things spinning at that speed. Should be something on YouTube that shows how. I'll look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today while driving on the street at low speed 10 to 15 mph I can feel every single bump and crack on the street, it feels like if the car had no cushion whatsoever.
Isn't there some rubber on the suspension springs? Or some other type of material from keeping the metal hitting metal? That's what feels like to me, like the car is just sitting on the metal frame and there is no protection?
I replaced all shocks, lower ball joints, now that I look at the engine mounts, they do look old and cracked, I know I need all window seals but damn it the car sounds like its just metal sitting on metal.
 

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Today while driving on the street at low speed 10 to 15 mph I can feel every single bump and crack on the street, it feels like if the car had no cushion whatsoever.
Isn't there some rubber on the suspension springs? Or some other type of material from keeping the metal hitting metal? That's what feels like to me, like the car is just sitting on the metal frame and there is no protection?
I replaced all shocks, lower ball joints, now that I look at the engine mounts, they do look old and cracked, I know I need all window seals but damn it the car sounds like its just metal sitting on metal.
Double check that the shocks are completely tightened. You might want to get a polyurethane set of bushings for the car. It replaces all the rubber, much stiffer and smoother, won't rot like rubber. How about your sway bar bushings and your leaf springs, they probably have rotted bushings as well and maybe worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
First time I checked the timing I tough it was correct 6 degrees BTDC
Well I was wrong, that's for the manual transmission.
The auto transmission is 12 degrees BTDC, so it was running at 6 degrees for who knows how long,
 
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