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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay... Here's the thing...

Bought Mustang back in August.

Year 1997
Make Ford
Model Mustang Pony
Body Style Coupe
Doors 2
Ext. Color Ruby Red
Int. Color Gray
Engine (L / ci) 3.8L / 232ci
rwhp / rwtq 150 hp / 215 ft/lbs
Transmission 5 Speed
Purchased 2004


No Mods or anything.


As the weather started to get colder, I began to notice a weird noise when I first started my car up. It would go away after 15 min. or so. Noise got worse and was only heard when clutch was depressed. Noise got even MORE worse and I realized the temperature didn't matter and that the noise was present whether or not the clutch was depressed. However it does tend to get worse while releasing at the very end. Took it to a mechanic who didn't know what was going on and now I'm posting up here. My cousin and I were listening closely and almost definitely determined that the sound was comming from 1 or more of the 3 parts that are pointed out in the pics. Let me know if you can help. I also have sound files which you can slightly hear the noises in! It sounds much louder in person and it is very embarassing (to me), so please help in any way you can.


The pics are pointing to the black bottle cap looking thing on the left, strange rectangular box in the back, and silver circular thing on the right. (Just in case I didn't already make it obvious enough)

Pic 1


Pic 2


Pic 3


Pic 4





Sound From Inside Car
From 8 seconds to 13 seconds you can hear me playing with the end of the clutch. Then, from 20-24 seconds you can hear it in a more continuous sound as I give a little gas.

Sound From Outside Car
On this one the sound is noticeable from startup to 11 seconds and then if you know what to listen for is slightly noticeable for the rest of the clip.




Also... I had my brake pads replaced at the same time the mechanic was supposed to get rid of this noise. They made the usual HORRIBLE SQUEALING noise that brakes make when they need to be replaced. They needed to be replaced anyway, but they still make the same noise. I know that some brakes make a squealing noise shortly after you get them installed, but it has been two months since they were changed. Any idea why and or how to fix it?
 

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Standby, I'm looking at the pics and listening to the files, that's your EGR system though bud!
 

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well i can't listen to the wav files because of the files because of the filter at work, but if you say it's coming from there, then it's probably clogged and allowing air to pass through ALL the time. And you might have lots of carbon built up there really bad making a whistle sound. That's just what I think, I don't know for sure yet with out listening to the files.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it's not really a whistle. More like a strange rattling noise, or like an electrical spark... something like that.
 

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EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It sends unburnt gas fumes into your intake to be reburnt. It's an emissions thing. Not all 100% of the fumes make it, just a percentage.
 

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Hmm, well I'll listen to it later when I get home and see. A rattle though, that doesn't make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow! :confused: Never knew that. Hehe Thanks

I'll be waiting! :D Also, if you want I can redo the file and up it in a diff format.
 

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I can't help, but this is exactly what people need to post when they have a problem. Excellent job describing the problem. :thumbs2:

I hope you get it figured out. :)
 

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So its a ticking noise?

If its a ticking noise somewhere in your egr is leaking/bad... mine does the same thing. It almost sounds like you got a slight knock from what I could tell which could mean a rod knocking

Do you have any check engine lights coming on? A faulty egr will throw a code...

If its a ticking noise and you dont have a check engine light then I would guess you have a valve sticking.. its really hard to tell from those sound clips though...

Listening to it more is it a pulsating ticking noise? Do your rpms rev up and down slightly at idle?

Hold a dollar bill up to your exhaust tip and see if you can see it try to suck the dollar bill up into the exhaust...

It is really hard to tell though
 

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SC doesnt have emmissions as far as I know so you could buy a EGR delete kit from 97stallion and remove the egr totally and if that is the problem it will fix it. The only hard part of the egr delete is getting nut on the header off.

If its a pulsating ticking noise I would think it would be egr related especially since you were drawn to that area of the engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks WhiteStang99!

Brent: I don't really know the best way to describe it. I can say that it is the pulsating noise you hear right after the car starts in the second sound clip. If you are hearing a knocking noise, it's probably just me holding the camera.

I don't have any check engine lights and I don't think that the rpms change at idle.

I'll have to try that dollar bill thing tomorrow. If anything happens, I'll let you know.

I also have two more questions... When I first got the car, the clutch was more sensitive (responsive) when you first start to release it. Now it's not very sensitive until later in the release. My bro said he thinks I drive to hard, but I don't really know, so I'm asking now.

Question 2... As you can tell from the pictures, under the hood is REALLY dirty. Was wondering if it would be safe to remove the battery and hose it down. After all, cars have to handle moisture every day, right? Not like I'm running it through a pool or anything.
 

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You know , it could be your PCV valve. If you say it's a ticking noise. Pull the valve out of the passenger side valve cover and cover the little hole on the bottom of it, if the noise stops, you valve is bad.
 

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OH ya, SC doesn't have emissions
 

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HaroldMGray said:
Thanks WhiteStang99!

Brent: I don't really know the best way to describe it. I can say that it is the pulsating noise you hear right after the car starts in the second sound clip. If you are hearing a knocking noise, it's probably just me holding the camera.

I don't have any check engine lights and I don't think that the rpms change at idle.

I'll have to try that dollar bill thing tomorrow. If anything happens, I'll let you know.

I also have two more questions... When I first got the car, the clutch was more sensitive (responsive) when you first start to release it. Now it's not very sensitive until later in the release. My bro said he thinks I drive to hard, but I don't really know, so I'm asking now.

Question 2... As you can tell from the pictures, under the hood is REALLY dirty. Was wondering if it would be safe to remove the battery and hose it down. After all, cars have to handle moisture every day, right? Not like I'm running it through a pool or anything.
I wouldnt hose it down. By some engine degreaser and carefully clean it up. There is to much electrical equipement to worry about to be dumping 100's of gallons of water on.

You can take the air intake off and clean that.

You can get a spray bottle and use it with the engine degreaser to spray it down after you let the degreaser soak in and then wipe it down with some towels.

But it is dirty I will give you that much.

If its a pulsating ticking noise and you arent getting any codes I would have to go with rob on the pcv valve. A faulty egr would throw codes I would think but then again a pcv valve might as well.

Try the trick 97stallion told you to do and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As you might already have figured out, I don't know much about cars... so, what is a PCV valve? I'll have to try that tomorrow too, as long as I can find it.

Also, when you say
OH ya, SC doesn't have emissions
. Are you saying that I can legally cut out my cats?


Thanks for the cleanup tip Brent.

My car has roughly 96,000 miles on it. Had 94,450 when I got it back in August.
 

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. Are you saying that I can legally cut out my cats?
No one can legally cut off your cats but if you happen to lose the cats somehow you don't have inspections so no one will care.

Basically if you can get the cats off then you won't have any problems as long as you don't have to get inspected.

Your pcv valve is on your passenger side valve cover. There is a valve sticking in the valve cover on the top. Pull that valve out and put your finger in the area where the plug was. If the noise goes away you have a bad pcv valve.

If you still here the noise then I am guessing a bad EGR valve.

Go to autozone or any autoparts store and pick up a Haynes Manual for your year. As alot of useful information in it as far as where things are located and how to change things out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay, so, lets say I "lose" my cats and for some strange reason (tail-light out) I get pulled over. If the cop notices that my car is loud or smells funny... I dunno. Could he force me to have my car inspected? Or to rephrase, what would have to happen to require me to have my car inspected?

Thanks for narrowing down my search! ;) I'll check tomorrow after school. I've been meaning to pick up a Haynes Manual for a while now, just never got around to doing it.

One more thing, what does PCV stand for?
 

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It stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

He can not make make you get a inspection because they do not exist in South Carolina :)

You may get a noise violation ticket but usually you will jsut get the ticket he pulled you over for.
 
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