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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The clacking noise can be heard at 10 second and last second mark in the video. The noise goes away if ac is off, ac is working fine. IMG_0271.MOV
 

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I can’t listen to it right now (in bed). Without hearing the noise, I’d guess an AC clutch or a belt issue (Since it goes away when turned off).

PS, update your throttle-controller thread. Review the new device & pedal assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Belt. Mine made the same noise before the whole assembly crapped out.
I saw some mustang videos on youtube with same noise with uploader saying its the clutch. How do i know determine if its the clutch or the belt? Is there two belt? the serpentine and ac belt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
okay so after closer examination i know where the noise is coming from now. Its seem the clutch stops spinning every few seconds and spins again few seconds later causing the clack i mentioned. Is there any harm in driving with bad clutch, i probably wont able to get to it in the next two weeks.
 

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My belt was so worn it somehow caused the clutch to go out (according to the shop I took it to, not sure how a damaged belt would make the clutch stop spinning). Anyway, that's why I assumed belt. To answer your question; I wouldn't recommend driving with it damaged, however, if you must wait, turn off the ac and fan. If the ac won't turn off, then the compressor is going to always be on which would be very bad for your vehicle if you drive it like that for any extended period of time with the clutch not spinning. If the ac won't turn on, then you should be ok for the two weeks or so.
 

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@winkawak, what I hear sounds like normal cycling of the AC compressor Clutch. It doesn’t sound particularly like it’s bad. I wonder what caused you to suddenly notice the clutch clicking on/off.

Is it is louder suddenly or did you just now happen to notice? That’s the question. If it is in fact, suddenly louder, I would guess it’s 1 of 2 possibilities. The clutch clearance has increased from normal wear, or the refrigerant in the system isn’t at the needed levels and is causing it to cycle more.

I doubt you’ll have any issues at all driving it like this until you can get it to a shop for a definitive answer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are you having any other issues with the car besides the noise? You said the noise goes away when you turn off the ac?
I have never used my ac on max or any close to it. 9 years of owning this car i always had ac on low- medium cool and 1-3 fan level. I did notice ac is not as cold as before on max not sure if its the refrigerant. Yea the intermittent clacking noise goes away with ac off.

My belt was so worn it somehow caused the clutch to go out (according to the shop I took it to, not sure how a damaged belt would make the clutch stop spinning). Anyway, that's why I assumed belt. To answer your question; I wouldn't recommend driving with it damaged, however, if you must wait, turn off the ac and fan. If the ac won't turn off, then the compressor is going to always be on which would be very bad for your vehicle if you drive it like that for any extended period of time with the clutch not spinning. If the ac won't turn on, then you should be ok for the two weeks or so.
@winkawak, what I hear sounds like normal cycling of the AC compressor Clutch. It doesn’t sound particularly like it’s bad. I wonder what caused you to suddenly notice the clutch clicking on/off.

Is it is louder suddenly or did you just now happen to notice? That’s the question. If it is in fact, suddenly louder, I would guess it’s 1 of 2 possibilities. The clutch clearance has increased from normal wear, or the refrigerant in the system isn’t at the needed levels and is causing it to cycle more.

I doubt you’ll have any issues at all driving it like this until you can get it to a shop for a definitive answer.
So i tested my ac on max to see if noise gets louder or anything weird but only noticed ac just not as cold as it was before. Youre right, I might be low on refrigerant since i have never recharge the system 9 years of owning this car. From what i gathered on google, refrigerant naturally loses level over time.

As for the clacking noise, i think i heard this noise before if i remember correctly. From time to time i would crack open my hood to visual check everything and i remember loosely hearing this clacking sound before at least 1 year prior. I always thought it was normal operation of the ac since my ac was running fine. Im not sure if the noise got alittle louder cause me to hear it while inside the car yesterday but today i couldnt hear it inside at all unless i have my doors open. If its damaged would my ac still operate like it is now?

I know ac clicks when you turn it on or off. Ill search around youtube to see if its the same noise. The weird part is i found few videos of mustangs on youtube with same noise turned out to be a bad clutch or compressor. It might be my compressor cycling more, to rule out any more confusion ill start by testing and topping of my refrigerant first. Then ill move from there but as of right now im not seeing any symptoms mentioned in articles of a bad clutch or compressor.
 

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No, it doesn’t sound like it’s bad. You’re really not likely going to know unless it totally fails, or if you taken it in for service (which I highly recommend after 9 years).
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, it doesn’t sound like it’s bad. You’re really not likely going to know unless it totally fails, or if you taken it in for service (which I highly recommend after 9 years).
Side question, ive been looking into how to recharge and what product to use. I cant seem to find refrigerant without sealer, do you have any recommendations?
 

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Side question, ive been looking into how to recharge and what product to use. I cant seem to find refrigerant without sealer, do you have any recommendations?
Not really. I stopped doing my own AC a while back.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not really. I stopped doing my own AC a while back.
Let just say i had way too many bad experience with different dealership mechanics work ethic, i just couldnt deal with it any more and started to learn to do all my maintenance.
 
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I understand. I’m not having that experience myself. I’ve been tempted too, but I would rather have my system evacuated properly, and refilled with the precise amount called for. I do have manifold-gauges but I don’t have any reclamation equipment. Last time I looked, Walmart had refrigerant without additives. A little sealer isn’t bad if your system is low. There’s a leak somewhere if you’re low (an o-ring, or seal normally), often the sealer will prolong use time before the inevitable real work.

I replaced my compressor at 3 years, with 18k miles due to a compressor front seal on my Mustang. I have a ‘98 Crown Victoria that has never needed any service. I have about 160k miles on that one, and it’s still ice cold, with no need to add refrigerant.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When i searched alot of articles, alot of them mention the sealers addictive can gummy up the ac system and cause blockage/flow efficiency. For a system with a small leak seems like a good choice but what ill effect will it have on non leak systems?
 

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Don’t know really. Years ago I used some with a sealer, and never had an issue with it. I needed a compressor Seal for a really slow leak. I had to add refrigerant every year because the car wasn’t worth the price of a new compressor, I didn’t have tools to replace the seal, and I was just cheap. I used the stuff and kept the AC working perfectly for 8 years that way. I sold the car and the AC worked like new at that time. Had I taken it apart for a forensic analysis, I wouldn’t have been surprised to find some goo.
 
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There are things I turn over to a pro. Screwing around with AC without the proper gauges and machines is a recipe for poor performance but, also broken AC parts. R134 systems are very sensitive to internal pressures and proper amounts of gas and lubricants. They are simpler systems than R12-style but, they still need the right tools and knowledge to work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There are things I turn over to a pro. Screwing around with AC without the proper gauges and machines is a recipe for poor performance but, also broken AC parts. R134 systems are very sensitive to internal pressures and proper amounts of gas and lubricants. They are simpler systems than R12-style but, they still need the right tools and knowledge to work properly.
Thanks for the headsup, when i first looked up on youtube regarding recharging ac system i found bunch of people using these recharge can with gauges. I almost pulled the trigger on one then i saw bunch of reviews on amazon regarding the inaccuracy of these gauges. I started researching more and found there are proper kits i can purchase with professional gauges and vacuum pump to do a proper job. Ive been comparing kits of various brand last few days, i think i should be okay now with the right tools. In the meantime im driving with my ac off and windows down in FL, not pleasant.
 

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The problem with any recharge can with gauges is you are still reliant that the system is largely evacuated and it may not be. Overfilling with lubricant poses problems, too. The pressure is in the system when it's operating, not when filling. Screw up the amounts and you can get really high internal pressures under operating conditions and pop things. I'm not saying don't do it but, what I am saying is understand really well how these systems work before you do it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The problem with any recharge can with gauges is you are still reliant that the system is largely evacuated and it may not be. Overfilling with lubricant poses problems, too. The pressure is in the system when it's operating, not when filling. Screw up the amounts and you can get really high internal pressures under operating conditions and pop things. I'm not saying don't do it but, what I am saying is understand really well how these systems work before you do it.
Thats correct, thats the reason why i didnt buy these recharge can with gauges. Im getting a professional kit includes “1/4 hp vacuum pump able to draw your system down as far as 37.5 microns, a three-valve manifold gauge and hose set able to work as high as 800 psi” to get the job done.
 
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