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Discussion Starter #1
So my plugs I took out are white frost look. My timing is set at 12 I think. The other thing that causes is lean fuel right? How do I check injectors or make it not run so lean? I have stock 19lbs injectors.

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Discussion Starter #5
dreamstang said:
looks to me like you are either getting bad gas or oil leakage. check your pcv.

do you get any smoke in the tail pipes?
I do have a oil leak in the middle/lower back of my motor. It's not the PVC because I've gas that before. This is between the bell housing and engine block. Back of the oil Pan but doesn't look like its the oil pan.

---------- Post added at 08:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 PM ----------

89 coupe said:
Any other issues ? Why I ask is sometimes a faulty MAF sensor can do that.
My MAF sensor is pretty good and clean I believe. How would you know if that's bad?
 

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I had a MAF go bad and it made mine run lean and I also developed power loss. My tuner found it. There is a way to check it but i don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
dreamstang said:
Probably rear main seal. But that wouldn't affect oil getting into the cylinders. :confused:
Me too because everything runs strong and sounds good. I try setting my timing the other day. I unplugged it and started it up and put it on 12 and then plugged it in again. As soon as I plug it in it jumped to 14. Before doing all this timing though it was set at 10. That's stock and still making spark plugs like this. Even at 12 it shouldn't do this.
 

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So my plugs I took out are white frost look. My timing is set at 12 I think. The other thing that causes is lean fuel right? How do I check injectors or make it not run so lean? I have stock 19lbs injectors.
Did you perform the proper procedure for reading plugs?If not, then what you have is likely not a true indicator of anything.

Me too because everything runs strong and sounds good. I try setting my timing the other day. I unplugged it and started it up and put it on 12 and then plugged it in again. As soon as I plug it in it jumped to 14. Before doing all this timing though it was set at 10. That's stock and still making spark plugs like this. Even at 12 it shouldn't do this.
Maybe your balancer is bad and the outer ring has slipped?
 

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I timed mine at 12* spout out and it went to about 25ish. I hear that's normal though. I would really like to see what gets found out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Trojan Horse said:
Did you perform the proper procedure for reading plugs?If not, then what you have is likely not a true indicator of anything.

Maybe your balancer is bad and the outer ring has slipped?
? What's your procedure in changing plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Trojan Horse said:
Did you perform the proper procedure for reading plugs?If not, then what you have is likely not a true indicator of anything.

Maybe your balancer is bad and the outer ring has slipped?
Well what do you think of my plugs. Usually when their clean white or frost white they are running hot and my car does seen to run hot even though my stock tempt gauge read normal.

---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:34 PM ----------

91notchback said:
He said reading plugs. Not the easiest thing in the world....
I agree. That's why I posted them on here to see what people think.
 

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Well what do you think of my plugs. Usually when their clean white or frost white they are running hot and my car does seen to run hot even though my stock tempt gauge read normal.
---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:34 PM ----------

I agree. That's why I posted them on here to see what people think.
They do not look right, but it is hard to say why exactly. The normal color should be a slight rusty look.


If you just pulled a plug out and looked at it, it will not give a good indication of what your engine is doing.

To properly read the plugs you need to make a WOT run and then pull and read the plugs without much idling or driving time. Doing it properly is not easy, because of the need to do it that way.

At the strip, you make a run and shut the engine off at the end of the run, tow it back to the pits, then pull the plugs and read them. Doing that at home is more difficult and rarely done properly leading to misdiagnosis of the plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They all look like this on one way or another. I just changed my plugs.

Well I have a good drag strip in my back yard. I will run it hard an then shut the motor off and coast it to a stop right? Then get out and pull a plug.

I did check the gap on the old plugs. Who ever put them in did not gap them. Some where 40 and other .45 and one was almost 50. Not sure this means a whole lot in my plugs being like this. Only other thing I can guess is that it's running lean and may need new injectors and MAF.
 

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They all look like this on one way or another. I just changed my plugs.

Well I have a good drag strip in my back yard. I will run it hard an then shut the motor off and coast it to a stop right? Then get out and pull a plug.

I did check the gap on the old plugs. Who ever put them in did not gap them. Some where 40 and other .45 and one was almost 50. Not sure this means a whole lot in my plugs being like this. Only other thing I can guess is that it's running lean and may need new injectors and MAF.
That will give you the best accuracy for plug readings.
The gaps being different may very well cause some issues with reading plugs, but overall they were close enough together to not really cause any engine damage or big issues.


It may very well be running lean, your next check should do well at identifying that. :good:
 
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