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What damage can be done to an engine if it is not broken-in properly?
Also why is it bad to take a fresh engine to HIGH RPMS?

Thank you.
 

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FORDGT14 said:
What damage can be done to an engine if it is not broken-in properly?
Also why is it bad to take a fresh engine to HIGH RPMS?

Thank you.
For one you can burn up your cam (cams) in the first few minutes!..
High rpms will only add more heat and friction to parts no properly broken in yet...cams,piston rings ect..
 

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XXSTEVEO66 said:
For one you can burn up your cam (cams) in the first few minutes!..
High rpms will only add more heat and friction to parts no properly broken in yet...cams,piston rings ect..
Ok thats what I thought, is it possible that your rod bolts could come loose and your piston heads would hit your valves? A friend asked me to get some info on this
 

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FORDGT14 said:
Ok thats what I thought, is it possible that your rod bolts could come loose and your piston heads would hit your valves? A friend asked me to get some info on this
Ive never heard anything like that..no bolts should ever come loose from the internals!..unless something breaks!..
 

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I'd say this is debatable. There are some that will say,"Drive it like you stole it" right from the start.
 

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DDTCM said:
I'd say this is debatable. There are some that will say,"Drive it like you stole it" right from the start.
As I'm a bit old school and thinking of it more...the new roller motors are probably not going to need such an intent break in...old flat tappet pushrod motors even need a zinc additive to help break in the cam..
But that being said I still feel the piston rings should be a part of break in!....
Lest someone else knows something I dont!..
 

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When I rebuilt my motor, I didn't do any sort of break in. Once I had everything tuned up, I drove it like I normally would, with some spirited runs included. I changed the oil after 500 miles and again at 1000 miles. After that I switched to royal purple.
 

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The cylenders in an engine are never trully perfectlly round so the rings need to wear a little to mate perfectlly to the cylender walls (speaking post bore/ honning) in the old school sence (about cams) low rpm break ins were required regardless of weather the rings wore properlly. Now however we have full roller rocker set ups. I allways recomend breaking in ur cam b4 finnal assemblly of the engine (look on you tube on how to do this i have seen it done and done it b4) then when your motor is together drive it like u stole it because u only got about 40-60k to wear the rings perfictlly to the cylender walls(this is done quicklly because the rough bers on the cylender walls are what weres the rings just so once there gone thats it change the oil at about 40 k after rebuild and then 60 k after that and ur good to go.
 

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I'd say this is debatable. There are some that will say,"Drive it like you stole it" right from the start.
I have to agree with DDTCM.

Think about Rental cars are they broken in? I doubt it, most people drive them like crap. They still run don't they? I am under the theory that it's best to take it easy for a little while. No scientific reasoning behind it though.
 

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99ford said:
I have to agree with DDTCM.

Think about Rental cars are they broken in? I doubt it, most people drive them like crap. They still run don't they? I am under the theory that it's best to take it easy for a little while. No scientific reasoning behind it though.
Ok...there's the saying drive it like you stole it,but there's also the saying drive it like its a rental!..yeah they run...and they crash and burn too!!...haha...$10 for the insurance and you can do what you want with a rental!!..that being said if your car was new would you let me rent it for a day then let you finish the payments??...muhuhahaha!!!...
 

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Ok...there's the saying drive it like you stole it,but there's also the saying drive it like its a rental!..yeah they run...and they crash and burn too!!...haha...$10 for the insurance and you can do what you want with a rental!!..that being said if your car was new would you let me rent it for a day then let you finish the payments??...muhuhahaha!!!...
Hey they run, and make great profitable used cars. I would never drive suggest driving them new either way.

Haha.. Heck no I wouldn't let to do that to my car!! I'm not that hard on them a guy I know once filled every cup holder with beer. He also drove one 16 miles in 1st/ low gear down the highway, then it caught fire. He had purchased the insurance before hand.
 

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Needless to say every rental car ive ever driven has been broken the [email protected]©K in!..
My favorite was an 02 cavalier me and my friends whored out at the drag strip!...
S#!T....did we just hijack this thread?..
 

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Needless to say every rental car ive ever driven has been broken the [email protected]©K in!..
My favorite was an 02 cavalier me and my friends whored out at the drag strip!...
S#!T....did we just hijack this thread?..
Too funny.

Ah we might have. However, we may have proved why one wants to break in a new engine.

BTW: At the drag strip too funny. Hertz is the way to go they have newer cars 30-35K miles max- they are more expensive. Enterprise keeps em forever, they're always nasty.
 

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FORDGT14 said:
What damage can be done to an engine if it is not broken-in properly?
Also why is it bad to take a fresh engine to HIGH RPMS?

Thank you.
When you bore out a block, you get a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bores, you gotta break it in or else you're going to mess up your rings and get metal shavings all over your motor. Basically you'll blow the motor if you do that.
 

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My dads new 2012 5.0's manual said to wait 100 miles tell you drive to "exesive" rpms aka dont get on it. It also said to drive at various speeds tell 1000 miles. IMO I would stick with what ford says just to be safe lol.
 

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MustangGT02 said:
My dads new 2012 5.0's manual said to wait 100 miles tell you drive to "exesive" rpms aka dont get on it. It also said to drive at various speeds tell 1000 miles. IMO I would stick with what ford says just to be safe lol.
Allways when dealing with the warrenty weather its right or wrong.

---------- Post added at 02:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------

JDF said:
When you bore out a block, you get a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bores, you gotta break it in or else you're going to mess up your rings and get metal shavings all over your motor. Basically you'll blow the motor if you do that.
U get metel shavings eather way thats why u change the oil within or about 40k after a bore and build then drive for about 60 more and change it again this removes the shavings so they cant score the cylinder walls or bind up ur rings etc... when thats done what remains is a slightly rough "crosshatch pattern" that shapes the rings perfictlly to the cylinders but wears smoth very fast. so u need to get on her to get the best seal possable.
 

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MustangGT02 said:
My dads new 2012 5.0's manual said to wait 100 miles tell you drive to "exesive" rpms aka dont get on it. It also said to drive at various speeds tell 1000 miles. IMO I would stick with what ford says just to be safe lol.
My 2012 manual said the same thing. Vary the rpms and no open throttle till after 1,000 miles.
 

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My cousin bought a new neon srt4 and in the manual it said to drive it hard but not like u "stole it" way for break in period .... I was shocked when I read that back in 2005 hahah but I guess there is some big difference between manufacturers way of breaking in the motor...my new focus that I bought it said go easy for first 5k miles and same went for my last project when i fully build my svt focus ... So my .02 is taking it easy for first 5k miles like 50% should be highest u go with right foot...
 
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