The days of 3000 mile/3 month oil changes are long gone....what does your owners manual state?

 

One place in the owners manual says 5K miles or 6 months. Another place references the Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor and lists the following:

When to expect the message prompting you to change your oil
Interval Vehicle use and example
Normal
7,000–10,000 mi
(12,000–16,000 km)
Normal commuting with highway driving
No, or moderate, load or towing
Flat to moderately hilly roads
No extended idling
Severe
5,000–7,000 mi
(8,000–11,999 km)
Moderate to heavy load or towing
Mountainous or off-road conditions
Extended idling
Extended hot or cold operation
High engine speeds and loads, engine braking and hard
cornering
Extreme
3,000–5,000 mi
(4,800–7,999 km) Maximum load or towing
Extreme hot or cold operation

 

any shop that does an oil change and doesn't verify level after deserves a dope slap at a minimum.



the 5k/6 month sounds early for today's engines (book part) I did mine time based at 9 months = 4 changes in 3 yrs which is only 1 extra over Fords suggestion. that was the method that helped me sleep

 

You can't go wrong following the manufacturers recommended intervals. I just wait for the message and don't pay attention to time/mileage.

 

why would you want to wait that long ? I change mine every 5000 miles . I would never wait 10,000 miles to change my oil , that is just plain crazy . remember oil changes are cheaper than a motor

 

Royal Purple Baby!

I use Royal Purple and yes it's a premium oil but I get 10k between changes and the oils feels as slick and clean as when it goes in. I wouldn't be afraid to take it to 15 or 18k if all you did was hwy miles. But who out there doesn't flog the 5.0 once in awhile? Hell that's why I got one!

 

I believe there are some good reasons for car manufacturers to extend the oil change frequency, all to please the EPA. It's been told to me that the oil change recommended in the owner's manual will get the car past the warranty and that's all the manufacturer's lawyers care about.

 

I've tested my oil using Blackstone labs. Even at 7500 miles, the oil still had plenty of life left.

 

I bet it does. It also has contaminants in it. I change my synthetic oil when my oil gets dark and it's always before the oil life monitor tells me it's time. I'm old school and I like everything clean.

 

1 year Amsoil changes (5K to 8K max)

 

10 Quarts???!!!
I wonder if that is because of the high lateral “G” rating that the PP2 is capable of......1.04 is WAY up there! One oil pan for every model is going to be more economical, I guess.....

 

I would guess the increase in oil capacity is because of the direct injection and fuel dilution. Also, the 2018 is slightly larger than the previous coyote engines and also has higher compression.

Take all of that into account plus the fact that nearly all of the 2018 GT engines have oil leaks from the pan and you need that 10qt capacity.

Also, the PP2 pulling 1.04 G is not anything really impressive anymore, especially with tires that you might get 10,000 miles from. So you will likely be changing out your tires about as often as changing your oil, if you go by the OLM. You put those Cup 2 tires on a Prius and it will probably pull 1.04 G. Also, those tires are great for maybe two track days before they are completely toasted. Not from wear but from heat cycles. I've had plenty of friends running them on their Vettes and Porsches and nearly all of them have switched to different tires.

 

The engine takes 10 quarts but does more oil in the system mean it will last longer?

That is correct.

why would you want to wait that long ? I change mine every 5000 miles . I would never wait 10,000 miles to change my oil , that is just plain crazy . remember oil changes are cheaper than a motor

I've gone 20,000 miles on my daily drivers using Amsoil. Never had any issues. There is nothing wrong with going 10,000 miles if the OLM tells you to.

 

I have over 7K miles on my stock tires and they show very little signs of wear. My engine does not leak any oil from the pan and I have never had any problem with it. Yes, the cubic inches are up to 307 with the 2018 engine since they do not have to use a cylinder liner. For a naturally aspirated 307 CI engine to be putting out 460 HP, 480 HP on the Bullitt, is remarkable.

 

You own a pp2 2018? If you read what I posted it was that after a few heat cycles the tires become garbage. The tread or what little there is doesn't have to wear down for the tires to go bad. Just go do a few weekends of autox or track days and your tires will be destroyed.

If you have a 2018 GT that doesn't leak oil from the pan then you are the one of the .001% that doesn't have that issue. I know a few people who have bought 2018s and they all leaked an absurd amount of oil within the first few thousand miles. One of the guys also only had 8 qt of oil in his car when he bought it. The rest had either leaked out or was never put in the engine to begin with. The oil pan issue is so bad that dealerships are going over there 2018s to make sure they are aren't leaking. According to a good friend of mine who is a service manager for one of the largest Ford dealers in Indiana, nearly every 2018 GT leaks oil from around the pan. He also said that an abnormal amount of them burn or leak more oil than the previous coyote engines do at 100k miles. We are talking quarts per few thousand miles.... so just something to be aware of.

Also, while the hp/L of the 2018 5.0 is impressive for what it is, its lack of low end torque is still an issue. When the competition makes 400 ft lbs of torque at 1800 rpm yet the 5.0 needs 4500 rpm to do the same thing is still a bit of a problem. A big American V8 is know for broad torque, not a power band that looks like it came from a Honda 4 cylinder. I'm not hating on the GT just wish it was a larger displacement engine to beef up that low end.

 

I have never been lucky enough to be in the .001% of anything good, I just can't believe that almost all oil pans leak oil. Now that being said the drain plug is not a design I approve of and can see that it may be a problem if the O ring that seals it becomes worn. I have read that the drain plug should be replaced with every oil change but think if someone would sell replacement O rings that is all that is needed.

I understand your argument about low-end torque and agree 100%; I have often said that Ford should come out with a 351 and 429 again but I understood that when I bought the car. You seem knowledgeable so you know that gearing can make up for the lack of engine torque and with the 10-speed auto, which I have, I don't sit around and worry about my low-end torque limitations. I like revving the engine high and don't yearn for a large CI engine with push rods. Fords, Chevys and Dodges all have their fans and each one has its advantages and disadvantages. The Camaro is a great track car but for daily driving I would much rather have a car I can see out of. For straight-line acceleration yoiu may want a Dodge. I have a Performance Pack 1 and don't track my car so I don't care about the tires. If you go to the track you are going to wear out tires, perhaps thw PP2 tires wear out quickly, I'll take yoiur word for that as I don't know. What I can tell you is that I drove my car on a 1,000 trip last week and got over 27 MPG out of my 5.0 which has 460HP and has a redline of 7,500 RPMs. For me the car is perfect as I don't track it, drag race or need a back-seat that will hold an adult. If low-end torque is your overriding factor by all means go for more cubic inches. I always wanted a 302 ever since Chevy came out with the first Z28 back when I was young and couldn't afford it. Yes I was a Chevy guy for many years but when Ford came out with the new 5.0 in 2011 I had to have one, and when they came out with the upgraded one in 2018 I hade to have it. If Ford puts a 429 in the Mustang in the near future I'll but that, can't wait for the low-end torque.

 

You guys want low end torque? Encourage Ford to put the Raptor TT V6 in the Mustang. ALL of the available torque is on board at 1,900 rpm instead of waiting to 4,700 rpm like in the 5.0........I love the sound of my 5.0, but would love to try a 500 hp, 3.5 TT in the ‘Stang.

 

pull the O ring off and measure it....buy a 10 pack online.

 

Check your car manufacturers manual

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