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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Thanks for the ideas and replies guys. It's gonna be a few years down the road but I think the coyote will have better room to grow. It's only what 5 years old now. Also the voodoo flat plane would be killer.
 
Because money. Same longblock for a ton of vehicles.
 
You mean for a pullout motor or the whole car? I've seen pullout ones near me on Car-Part out of F150s for $2500-$3k. For the actual Mustang motor its like $4500.


On SVTP a 2011 GT itself is $20k if you are willing to be patient and possibly travel. I saw one last year on Florida for $20k, stock, white with black cloth M6 no options at all and 20k-something miles. That is the most economical way to go TBTH.
 
Supposedly there is a 5.0 at the AED shop for sale for like $1300 with a blown cylinder 3. Good candidate for a rebuild. My friend who was there last week told me.


Bullitts are better than Bullets
 
That's a damn good deal especially if the cylinder wall is good. Quick hone, buy the Boss rods and pistons for under $500, have it fully rebuilt DIY for like $2k total invested and good for 800hp.
 
Supposedly there is a 5.0 at the AED shop for sale for like $1300 with a blown cylinder 3. Good candidate for a rebuild. My friend who was there last week told me.


Bullitts are better than Bullets
Drop a 5.3 in it with a turbo and you won't have those problems anymo' lol. Plus you don't have to deal with the VVT crap.


Can I say "****" on here? Lol... can't even say "****" on here.. I guess Ill have to say "crap" instead smfh
 
Drop a 5.3 in it with a turbo and you won't have those problems anymo' lol. Plus you don't have to deal with the VVT crap.


Can I say "****" on here? Lol... can't even say "****" on here.. I guess Ill have to say "crap" instead smfh
Even with a carburetor, you still need a computer to control the ignition system.
 
That's a damn good deal especially if the cylinder wall is good. Quick hone, buy the Boss rods and pistons for under $500, have it fully rebuilt DIY for like $2k total invested and good for 800hp.
Yeah its a damn good deal. But i'm not in Sac right now, and nowhere to keep it.
Pull the trigger Soccer.
Like said above, i don't have anywhere to keep it. And i'm extremely tapped out of $ lately. I have a hard time justifying the $80 hood struts on AM when they come back in stock lol. Thats how bad it is.
Drop a 5.3 in it with a turbo and you won't have those problems anymo' lol. Plus you don't have to deal with the VVT crap.


Can I say "****" on here? Lol... can't even say "****" on here.. I guess Ill have to say "crap" instead smfh
VCT* And that is what gives the 5.0 the absolutely amazing power band. A 5.3 with a turbo set up on the front is going to weigh a crap load since thats an iron block and then the added turbo weight. A N/A 5.0 is perfect, that alone cuts so much weight off the nose of the car. And higher revs will be more beneficial to me. Oh and there is someone who got 588whp out of their coyote, bored out to 5.2 and used all lightweight internals. Thats on stock compression. Imagine 16.0:1, which i have heard is very doable. I have no doubt coyote at 5.2 with that high of a compression ratio can hit very high 600s NA.
Corners > Straight line
 
Even with a carburetor, you still need a computer to control the ignition system.
That's alright because it does not manipulate a mechanical component. Simple ignition modules in which electricity dictates what your electrical spark does are okay.

Electricity should control electrical systems in the car. Things like radios, headlights, ignition spark, and the horn.

Electricity should NOT control mechanical systems in the car except for the starter motor or an electrical fan.

Mechanical systems should be controlled by mechanical systems, Or directly be controlled by ME, the driver.
 
Yeah its a damn good deal. But i'm not in Sac right now, and nowhere to keep it.

Like said above, i don't have anywhere to keep it. And i'm extremely tapped out of $ lately. I have a hard time justifying the $80 hood struts on AM when they come back in stock lol. Thats how bad it is.


VCT* And that is what gives the 5.0 the absolutely amazing power band. A 5.3 with a turbo set up on the front is going to weigh a crap load since thats an iron block and then the added turbo weight. A N/A 5.0 is perfect, that alone cuts so much weight off the nose of the car. And higher revs will be more beneficial to me. Oh and there is someone who got 588whp out of their coyote, bored out to 5.2 and used all lightweight internals. Thats on stock compression. Imagine 16.0:1, which i have heard is very doable. I have no doubt coyote at 5.2 with that high of a compression ratio can hit very high 600s NA.
Corners > Straight line
how much value do you put on the roll center of the front of the car?

Ill give you a hint: Overhead cam is not your friend.

Define moment arm.
 
VCT* And that is what gives the 5.0 the absolutely amazing power band.

A N/A 5.0 is perfect, that alone cuts so much weight off the nose of the car. And higher revs will be more beneficial to me. Corners > Straight line
VCT* Oh yeah? that's cool.

Good thing the N/A 5.0 cuts a lot of weight off the car. That will make it easier to push when your VVT finally does what VVT does best! :p:
 
VCT* Oh yeah? that's cool.

Good thing the N/A 5.0 cuts a lot of weight off the car. That will make it easier to push when your VVT finally does what VVT does best! :p:
I see a lot more broken down carb'd engines than EFI engines. Especially coyotes. Just ask my friend about how much fun he has with his 455 BBP engine.

We aren't in the 60s anymore.
 
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