First off that is really awesome. Second... I would recommend an a9l and a repin of the sn95 harness (easy) vs the t4m0. The t4m0 has terrible stock tune is difficult to program and pulls timing between shifts. Third, the explorer valve springs are WEAK and the truck cam is crap. Simple. Cheap tfs valve spring swap and a stock gt cam so you dont need a tune or if you are going to tune it throw a tfs1 or letter cam or steeda19 cam in. Good luck.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Mustang Evolution mobile app

 

Yeah you were going to help me with that repin one of these days. I will do the a9l based on your feedback.

I planned on doing a cam, hadn't thought about the valve springs but that makes sense. I was looking at an E cam, is that no Bueno? Will o have to tune it with that cam? I think right off the bat I would rather run a stock tune just to get me rolling.


IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

That cam of all the letter cams will require a tune.

Damn I keep forgetting about that re-pin. I have to go dig up the diagrams.

 

What cam do you recommend? I want it to sound nasty but it doesn't need to be hardcore.

I also have a question about the fuel rails. I pulled the cam synchronizer and got a 94-95 mustang MSD pro billet distributor. It seems to hit the fuel rail when you turn it. So I guess I need to change that?




IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

It shouldn't hit... MSD is kinda crap anyway. I like Crane for a product that doesn't suck.

For a cam... anything besides the stock cam is going to need a tune. Really no way around it. Which means you might want to see if there is anyone near you who can tune the 94/95 computers near you. I was under the impression you were just going to swap the motor in and go. Which you can do still... The GT cam is actually a pretty decent cam.

If you want it to sound nasty, the B cam works GREAT with GT40s and has a nice bump to it.

As for the A9L repin... This should be what you need. You need a BAP and a fan controller, you need an ignition box and you will need #19 injectors if you don't have them already. If you decide to swap to the A9L these should be what you need.

 

Hmm okay well maybe I will just get a regular GT cam then. I'm not trying to break any land speed records with this beast. But here is what I'm talking about with the distributor.

And just because I know this will make you bring Scotty. Your hate for BBK. I got these on eBay shipped for 20 bucks. I just wanted something to get me going.

And the head three bars of course.

IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

And thank you for the re pin info!!


IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

Lol, my Steeda actually has BBK headers on it from the previous owner... of course they are already rusting. I'm going to have them blasted/coated tho.


And if you just want to get it going, re-pinning for an A9L and using the GT cam with some TFS springs is going to be THE most budget way to go and still have a motor that is pretty powerful. You will have a LOT of torque with that thing I will say that. Add some 1.7 roller rockers for a little more lift on the GT cam.


And unsure about the rails hitting... are those Mustang rails? If not that is probably why.


Great you got the regular GT40 heads too! You can tell they are not the Ps by the bars obviously and also I can see the "GT" plain as day on the head. If it was a P head it would say "GTP".

 

Yeah I plan to blast the headers also. Just need to clean my garage so I can get to my blaster. I'm literally in the garage now

As for the fuel rails, they are still from the explorer. I really haven't changed anything on the motor yet except the distributor just because I sold the cam synchronizer. So I guess I need 87-95 fuel rails.

I got super lucky with this motor, they stopped putting the three bar GT heads in explorers in early 97 from what I understand.

Okay so I will hunt for a GT cam, fuel rail, and figure out the springs and rockers.




IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

I mean that is what I would do just to get it back on the road. If you really want to cam it then by all means, just realize it won't run right until you tune it.


But yeah the exploder fuel rails are what your problem is and I'd just see about finding a set of used Crane Gold 1.7 pedestal rockers for $100 and then the TFS springs/locks/retainers are going to probably be your best bang for the buck. Maybe do valve stem seals while you are at it? Cheap insurance.


Also do the Fox TB setup vs the SN95. The Exploder intake is already setup for it, you'll just need a fox throttle cable and cruise cable if you want cruise. And a fox TB and a few other things... I have not even messed with that in a loooooooooooong time you probably should just search "fox tb conversion" on google for a metric assload of threads on that topic.

Better throttle response, cleaner engine bay, ability to run a BIG throttle body if you so choose.

 

Yeah I think your right.

I have held off on getting the throttle body stuff because I wasn't sure if I should go the fox route or the sn95 route.

This truck is going to be a no frills type vehicle. I'm going for clean and less is more. No clutter. No ac, no cruise, maybe no radio. Not sure yet. If I decided to do ac I might look into a stealth setup that keeps the fire wall clean. Hot rod style.

I appreciate all the help I can get on this. I haven't had a fox or a mustang since the coyote in about 9-10 years. So I am rusty as hell. Plus I never got crazy with any of my motors. It was always suspension and appearance.

Garage is getting cleaned out and truck is getting back in play. I'm sure this isn't everyone's idea of a project they would want but I have always had a soft spot for a mini truck. Plus parts are so cheap. I've really kept this project under a few thousand and honestly the explorer profits paid for most all the parts I already have


IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

Wow, this is awesome. I always wanted to swap an Explorer motor into a Ranger, only with a 4x4 Ranger. Love the updated front clip, that's an improvement. I hope you continue to find great deals on your parts, it's neat to see what you can really do with a little creativity and a budget.

 

Thanks DW

I need to cut the front of the frame up next and get the mustang II suspension on and I will start to mess with the bags and stuff. It's one of those projects where it's really never going to be worth a ton but it keeps me busy and I enjoy it. I thought about getting a 4x4 and building a monster at one point but I really love mini trucks. These little rangers are so cheap too. Worst part is that it takes up a parking spot in the garage until I get it running and can park it outside.

I think I forgot to mention the new front end is from a 2006. It's not a direct swap, the core support had to be swapped and I had to massage some of the mounting areas but the body lines do line up so that makes for a great swap. The 96 front end is terrible looking. Lol.


IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

I'd leave it a 4x2 and do something like a mini tub out back if it was me... I'd love to have a shop like that where I actually had room... someday...

And I forget if you are going to rebuild the T-5 trans with stock parts or what. If you are sending it somewhere... I dunno how much $$$ you have for a trans but if you are not planning on a power adder I know you can get a brand new T-5 on your doorstep for $750 from a really good builder and no core.

If you are going to power adder the thing or you want the best, get an A5 gearset.

 

Yeah this is def staying a 4x2

Before I bought this I was thinking about a 4x4 platform to start with if I went the 4x4 route. But that's just not my thing at the end of the day.

I am building the T5 with the rebuild kit for a t5z (I believe that's what it's called). So it will have the best parts inside. I got 2 used transmissions, the bell housing, a B&m short shifter and the full (oe ford) rebuild kit for about 175. Lots of killer eBay deals and a craigslist deal. Can't beat it. And when I have one good one all together, I might rebuild the other and sell it or part it out. Selling the case and gears separate will easily net me 200 bucks. So I can't lose. ?

I don't plan to out power that t5 for now anyway. So I should be good.




IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

Yeah you should be good. The Z spec stuff is the best as far as stock gears go but the actual best gearset is the Astro stuff. Its not cheap but definitely look into them if you are going to go with a lot of power at some point.

 

I want to keep it EFI and reliable so nothing too crazy. If this thing sees 300hp in this light little truck I think I will be okay. Maybe after its all together and I get board, I can look into a different trans all together.

The one thing that's going to cost me some coin is a gear swap in that Lincoln pumpkin. Wanna say it's got a crappy ratio. I forgot since I've had it over a year. But those IRS 8.8's are different than a regular 8.8 of course. And anyone looking for gears on these typically has a cobra, so people put cobra prices on it.


IG @Oxford5pointoh

 

Very interesting project.................I like it.
About 15 years ago a friend did pretty much what you are doing except he took the drive train out of a wrecked 1998 cobra and at the same time I was working on S10 with Lt1. It took almost 3 years to put the Ranger together and when you eased into the throttle it was hard to keep in a straight line.....................a real handful.
You've got to love those little trucks..............I do!